Design for the First Complicated Steel Sportswatch by Gérald Genta, Kicks Off Sotheby's June Watch Auctions in New York

NEW YORK, 3 June 2022 – An unrealised design for the very first luxury stainless-steel chronograph has been unearthed in the archives of legendary watch designer Gérald Genta, in what can be considered an historically significant discovery for horology.

Created by Genta for IWC, this is the earliest known design for any complicated stainless steel sportwatch, and - with a date possibly reaching back to the late 1960s - could predate Genta’s 1970 design for The Royal Oak, until now widely accepted as the very first imagining of any luxury steel sports watch.

It is possible that this never-before-seen IWC design may have been completed in the early 1970s, at the same period Genta conceived the celebrated Ingenieur 1832 SL for IWC in 1974. However, three clues hint to an earlier design date as early as 1967.* While Genta himself told his family of the importance of this drawing, it is only now, with the help of Dr. Seyffer, Curator of the IWC Museum, that the details underpinning the significance of this piece have been fully unearthed.

*(1) The layout of the dial suggests it was to be equipped with a manual winding movement, which were largely phased out in favor of automatic chronograph movements after 1969. (2) Until now, this design was unknown to Hannes Pantli, who has been with IWC since 1972, and would have been very much involved in a chronograph project from that date. (3) Research shows that IWC was looking to add a chronograph model to its catalogue as early 1967, which could hint to the genesis of the design.

Benoît Colson, Director and International Specialist of Sotheby’s Watches said: “The creation belongs to Gérald Genta’s golden era of stainless-steel sport pieces, a period of only a few years that absolutely revolutionized the horological world and our perception of watches. The earliest known design for any luxury steel chronograph watch, this design for IWC is as avant-garde and historically important as the Royal Oak, the Nautilus or the Ingenieur 1832. Should it have gone into production, this watch would no doubt have been a great success.

Whether the design was produced in 1967 or in the mid-1970s, it nonetheless testifies the genius and vision of Gérald Genta. With his creation, he was not only one step ahead of his time by creating a luxury stainless steel sport watch but rather two steps ahead with the first complicated luxury stainless steel sport watch. This discovery in the Genta archives brings a new light to his creations, the history of chronographs, sport watches as well as to IWC.”

Many of the distinctive elements of Genta’s most famous creations - namely the Royal Oak and The Nautilus - are echoed in this design: the bracelet watch made in stainless steel, the bezel decorated with screws. However, while these other stainless-steel sport pieces saw a chronograph declination many years later, 1998 for the Royal Oak and 2006 for the Nautilus, this present piece was conceived as a chronograph from the very beginning.

Rather excitingly, this is the sole surviving drawing from the Genta archive relating to IWC, a partnership which would produce the aforementioned Ingenieur 1832, considered one of Genta’s masterpieces. The drawing will star in Sotheby’s third and final installment of the Gérald Genta: Icon of Time series, an offering of 35 original designs, each paired with unique NFTs, from Gerald Genta’s archive, taking place at Sotheby’s New York from 8- 22 June 2022.

Elsewhere, in the auction, his never-before-seen designs for landmark watches, including the Seiko’s Credor Locomotive and the Bulgari Roma, are presented side by side with designs for Genta’s highly prized eponymous brand, including his highly complicated pocket watches, and luxury Disney wristwatches.

Proceeds from the sale will benefit the Gerald Genta Heritage Foundation

Further Auction Highlights

While Seiko’s Credor Locomotive is among the most highly prized and rare of vintage watches today, few people know that Genta was the hand behind its creation. Indeed, the Gentas have had a long and strong relationship with Japan and were always very fond of the Japanese culture. As such, Seiko and its founder, Mr. Hattori, always held a very special place in the watch designer’s heart. Commissioned in 1979 specially for Hattori, the Credor Locomotive is widely considered the Nautilus or Royal Oak’s rare distant cousin. It has all the characteristics of the sport watch in the purest Genta philosophy; the hexagonal bezel secured by screws is the most obvious sign of filiation, while there are also similarities in the bracelet and dial.

While the Gérald Genta brand was acquired by Bulgari in 2000, the longstanding history between the celebrated Italian luxury house and the Maestro is rather unknown. In 1975, Genta designed the Bulgari Roma, and two years later, the Bulgari Bulgari – both of which remain the most famous timepieces produced by the brand. Genta’s penchant for Italian flair and style (indeed his father was Italian) is on full display, engraving Bulgari’s name on the bezel, the same way Roman emperors had their insignia on coins, and designing the round shape of the case as a tribute to the Pantheon’s marble column.

The Gefica Safari, from 1984, is one of the most well-known pieces ever produced by the Genta brand. This was the first watch to have a bronze case, something that drew criticism at the time for its dull appearance, but provided an ingenious solution stopping the watch from reflecting moonlight during a nighttime safari. The buckle is also equipped with a compass. The watch was born from a special request made by three hunters, Geoffroy, Fissore and Canali, who were looking for a watch suitable for their quests. The first two letters of their names gave the watch its name: the Gefica.

Ever the iconoclast, Gerald Genta also turned traditional perceptions of what constitutes a luxury watch on its head with his Disney Fantasy designs in the 1990s. These high precision wristwatches depict characters including Mickey Mouse as a wizard, or embellished in red rubies, Donald Duck playing golf, Aladdin, Jasmine, and 101 Dalmatians.

The sale also includes commissioned designs for some of his most prestigious clients across the globe. The present design, representing two sword-canes with hidden compartments for a clock and a text in Arabic, was a special commission for a Head of State. On this occasion, Genta had the challenging task to create both a watch and an object, and as such, immersed himself in his client’s universe to capture their desires and needs.

Gérald Genta is famous for bringing the complicated watch back into fashion. The perpetual calendar, the skeletonized movement and the minute repeating were three of his signature complications. The above design, circa 1981, represents a perpetual calendar minute repeater clock watch and was, at the time, one of the most complicated watches in the world, a highly complicated skeletonized piece. He mastered the art of designing unique, groundbreaking pieces able to be highly complicated or decorated. To this day, the sheer variety of his creations remains unparalleled in the entire industry.

Presented alongside Sotheby's Important Watches Auction, highlighted by he largest private collection of Audemars Piguet's to come to market.

Important Watches

Sotheby's bi-annual auction of Important Watches will take place on 15 June in New York, and will present a selection of rare and distinguished timepieces, led by The X Collection -- a comprehensive and prolific curation of 170 sports watches amassed by a single owner over several decades.  Encompassing vintage and modern timepieces by Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Richard Mille, the collection is most notably distinguished by a group of 50 Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks – representing the largest private collection of Audemars Piguet’s to ever come to market. Alongside this exceptional collection, the sale presents a group of extraordinary Patek Philippe wristwatches, including four examples of the highly sought-after reference 5270, retailed and stamped by Tiffany & Co – of which none have previously been offered at auction. Also appearing at auction for the first time is an exceptionally rare and early F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoi D’egalite, which has remained in the same private collection since it was acquired by its original owner in 1999. 

Specialist-led walkthroughs of the exhibition available by appointment from 8 - 14 June.

Auction Calendar

Important Watches

15 June, 10am ET

Fine Watches

8 – 22 June, 11am ET

Gérald Genta: Icon of Time

8 – 22 June, 1pm ET