Patek Philippe Ref. 3843/1 "Lasque Diamond" Pièce Unique at Christie's Middle East

A Unique Patek Philippe designed around a client’s 13,43-carat lasque diamond headlines Christie’s Watches Online: The Dubai Edit.

This one-of-a-kind bespoke creation features a 13.43-carat portrait-cut diamond, giving a unique sparkle to the timepiece’s gold blue dial. Accompanied by a digital copy of the certificate of Origin dated 18 January 1994 and signed by Philippe Stern mentioning “Pièce Unique”.

Dubai, 21 September 2023 – Christie’s Middle East is proud to announce the upcoming Watches Online: The Dubai Edit auction featuring a stunning bespoke creation in 18k white gold by Patek Philippe from 1991: its case, merging with an integrated bracelet, was designed around a 13.43-carat portrait-cut diamond that serves as the watch crystal, enhancing the dazzling blue sunburst watch face. It is the only timepiece known to feature lasque diamond, to both enhance and protect the dial.

This bespoke Patek Philippe with the unique reference 3843/1 is estimated at US$1,000,000-2,000,000. Watches Online: The Dubai Edit will take place from 5 to 19 October 2023.

Remy Julia, Head of Watches Christie’s Middle East, India & Africa: “It is extremely rare for Patek Philippe to make special orders, even for its most important clients. It follows that the appearance of a bespoke Patek Philippe at auction is an event, and for a bespoke Patek Philippe to be adorned with a portrait diamond, probably the third largest known, is a truly rare sight.”

This fascinating wristwatch ingeniously incorporates one of the world’s most precious treasures, the diamond. The 13.43-carat transparent flat gem – the third-largest portrait-cut diamond known – was supplied by the original client to Patek Philippe when he commissioned the project in 1990. The completed watch was delivered to him on 18 January 1994, in Geneva, as a Pièce Unique.

The diamond’s triangular shape inspired the design of the 18k white gold water-resistant case created by famed Genevan case maker Atelier Réunis. The bespoke dial by Stern Frères, in blue gold with a sunray finish, features 18k white gold baton cardinal indexes and dot hour markers, asymmetrically positioned. A visual presence enhanced by the way the light plays on the details of the integral mesh-design bracelet, also in 18k white gold and created by Patek Philippe, and the diamond’s facets just visible at the bezel. Documenting the historical importance of this watch, the carat weight is also permanently engraved on the inside of the case back, along with the unique reference 3843/1.

Lasque – when the diamond becomes the medium

Like no other gemstone, diamonds have always captivated the imagination, with no other purpose than to enchant. There is one exception however, when rather than being showcased, they fulfil a function – as lasque diamonds or, as they are also known, portrait-cut diamonds. Exhibiting an extremely rare mastery of gemstone cutting, they are polished flat on both sides, with the top surface faceted at the edges, and owe their name to the fact they were used to glaze precious miniature portraits in medallions. The most famous examples, created almost exclusively for royalty, date from the 17th to 19th centuries and constitute the highlights of legendary jewellery collections. 

According to jewellery historian Diana Scarisbrick, “the reflections of the facets illuminate the portrait, the highly polished limpid surface lets the subject shine through with much more brilliance than crystal and also draws the eye towards it. Only the clearest stones could achieve this magical effect”, an effect that renders the deep blue gold dial of this Patek Philippe all the more stunning.