Industry News
Timekeepers Club / February 3, 2024

Gerald Charles Expands Across Four Continents

I would like to express my gratitude for the attention you have shown towards my new brand, Gerald Charles. Each of these timepieces has been crafted with passion. As has been my approach since the start of my career, I have always strived to blend technology with aesthetics. It’s about searching for the ideal shape, it’s about using colors as a painter uses his palette and canvas, to present you with a timepiece that brings a sense of pleasure every time it catches your eye. If I have succeeded in conveying this passion, then I am a contented artist, energized to continue on my creative journey with even greater vigor. Gérald Charles Genta, Founder of Gerald Charles.

Key Takeaways:

  • Heritage: Founded in 2000 by the watchmaking legend Mr. Gérald Charles Genta, the brand – which he named using his middle names to signify the close link with his crea5ons— is the last brand in his life5me. It safeguards the 11-year official archive of the 20th century's most celebrated watch designer (from 2001 un5l his death in 2011).
  • Leadership: CEO Federico Ziviani, backed by a freshly appointed board, has been at the helm of Gerald Charles since 2019.
  • Creative Direction: The brand’s creative direction has been entrusted to Octavio Garcia, who had been Audemars Piguet's Creative Director for over 11 years.
  • The Maestro case design: The brand crafts and unveils its unique world, currently focusing solely on the iconic Maestro case, a design that evolves through various functions and complications, ranging from ultra-slim models to three hands and date, a skeleton and a tourbillon.
  • Global reach: From a business perspective, the brand is expanding through strategic openings worldwide (over 10 new retail locations are planned for 2024 alone) with top-tier partners such as London Jewelers (USA), Rüschenbeck (Germany), Ethos (India), Seddiqi & Sons (Dubai).

A brief history of the origins of Gerald Charles

After founding Gerald Charles in 2000, Mr. Gérald Charles Genta turned to the Italian Ziviani family in 2003 – he was close friends with Franco Ziviani and his brother Giampaolo – to assist in managing the brand’s operations.

Mr. Genta sold the company to them but remained on board as chief designer until 2011. During this period, he dedicated himself to creating only exceptional and complicated pieces for major collectors, designing a variety of case shapes with his characteristic creative energy. Under his guidance, the brand flourished as a purely creative expression of its founder.

The Maison Gerald Charles today

Neither round, square, nor tonneau-shaped... It is the distinct form of the Maestro that represents the cornerstone of the brand’s product strategy. Unparalleled and instantly recognizable, the Maestro is the creation of Mr. Gérald Genta, the most celebrated watch designer of the 20th century. Featuring its iconic 'smile' at 6 o'clock, the Maestro stands out as the only asymmetrical mechanical watch produced to date in the collection.

Since 2019, under the new stewardship of Federico Ziviani as CEO of the brand, the Gerald Charles Maison has embarked on a new chapter in its history, breathing life into the iconic Maestro watch that truly embodies the brand’s very essence.

In late 2023, Franco Ziviani, who knew Mr. Gérald Genta well and is himself a distinguished figure in the watch industry, recognized for his successful development and management of the Italian market for Audemars Piguet, has joined the company as Chairman. His expertise is now instrumental in driving the robust growth of the company.

Safeguarding heritage, creating value

The precious archives of Mr. Genta are the treasures of Gerald Charles, housing his final designs and collections which serve as an inexhaustible wellspring of inspiration for the future. When Federico Ziviani and the new board decided to reinvigorate the brand in 2019, the dynamic they set in motion is anchored in the following strategic pillars:

  • Crafting remarkably versatile timepieces that are formal and elegant, yet technically sporty and exceptionally comfortable – designed for universal appeal, suitable for both men and women, and adaptable to all lifestyles;
  • At the heart of product strategy: Harmonizing contrasts between the vintage and ‘formal’ spirit of the Maestro case and its modern technical aspects of its ergonomic design, 5G shock resistance, lightweight construction, and water resistance;
  • Safeguarding the archive treasure with its extensive collection of works from the last 11 years of Mr. Gérald Charles Genta’s life (from 2000 until his passing in 2011);
  • Protecting the Museum Collection, with its watches that were designed and produced at the time by the Maestro himself, some of which bear his signature on the case back;
  • Leveraging and bringing out the iconic Maestro case design, with a commitment to building a cohesive new collection that remains true to the founder's vision, incorporating new complications and exploring novel materials;
  • Powering our watches with calibers that reflect the latest technologies.

Maison Gerald Charles is the independent and family-owned company entrusted with the legacy of its founder, Mr. Gérald Charles Genta.

Today, the brand is led by Federico Ziviani, the brand's 28-year-old CEO, who represents the second generation of this Italian family. He is supported by a Board, notably including his father Franco Ziviani as Chairman, who was well-acquainted with Mr. Gérald Charles Genta (his brother Giampaolo Ziviani was also involved in managing the brand's development alongside Mr. Genta). Together, they bring a profound understanding of Genta's last creaJve legacy, coupled with extensive experience in the watchmaking industry.

Octavio Garcia, who joined the brand in 2020 as Creative Director, brings invaluable experience from his 11-year tenure as lead designer at Audemars Piguet. His pivotal role in creative development and project continuity, such as the crafting of skeleton watches and the integration of complications, is a testament to his exceptional aesthetic sensibility.

Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, reflects: "Joining the family business to develop and lead it, and expanding our business activities fivefold in four years, has been both incredibly demanding and rewarding. The growth of Gerald Charles is rooted in our respect for the fabulous creative legacy of our founder Monsieur Gérald Genta. Our strategy is built on complete independence, a flexible and agile management structure, and a focus on innovative creations and absolute excellence."

Originally established in Lugano, Switzerland, the company's headquarters remain there, having grown from a team of three people in 2019 to almost 20 today, and continuing to develop and enrich the brand’s heritage.

Manufacturing is based in Switzerland as well, with most of the components being produced in the Cantons of Geneva, Vaud and Neuchatel. In 2024, the brand will also inaugurate a flagship location, a space of over 300 square meters (approximately 3,000 square feet) on Rue du Mont Blanc (next to the Four Seasons Hotel Les Bergues): this salon, called L'Atelier will ensure the Maison’s continuous presence in the city of Calvin and provide an exclusive and welcoming environment for clients.

The Maestro Case: A unique and evolving design

With a diameter of 40mm, the Maestro's case is based on the original design by Mr. Gérald Charles Genta. Its shape, inspired by the baroque architecture of Francesco Borromini's 17th-century Roman monument, combines a square and an octagon with the distinctive 'smile' at 6 o'clock.

The watch’s complex and unexpected construction features an impressive 35 distinct components (39 for the chronograph version), all meticulously assembled by hand. A key highlight is its comfort. The alignment of the case back, lugs, and strap along a single straight line allows the watch to sit flat on the wrist, epitomizing what can be described as 'an ergonomic watch'. Moreover, the multitude of angles, both inward and outward, along with rounded, convex, and concave surfaces, brilliantly accentuates every detail, beautifully capturing light.

Conceived by Mr. Gérald Charles Genta in 2006, this singular and adaptable case was designed to house everything from the simplest automatic movement with a date feature to a sophisticated tourbillon. Since then, the brand has developed a cohesive collection, continuously introducing new complications.

2020: Celebrating 20 years of Gerald Charles

After years of custom work and a variety of unique creations, Gerald Charles chose to focus on a singular model to establish a strong, recognizable presence: the Maestro. With its gender-neutral 40mm size and sleek black-on-steel design, the Maestro offers exceptional versatility, iconic style, and ease of wear. This marked the first step in rebuilding a solid brand identity.

This fresh impetus was first showcased with the successful launch of the 'Maestro Anniversary' collection in 2020 to celebrate the brand’s first two decades and its prestigious watchmaking heritage. Crafted in stainless steel, Mr. Gérald Charles Genta's hallmark choice of material, and featuring the iconic rubber strap, each watch in the collection bore a unique month-year engraving from January 2000 to December 2020, resulting in a total of 252 distinct timepieces, now highly sought after by collectors.

The response to this inaugural series was extraordinary. Direct sales to customers and collectors who remembered the brand, significant buzz and visibility across networks, and interest from celebrities, particularly in Italy and Europe.

Since then, demand for the brand has grown globally. In just three years, the distribution network expanded from a few select outlets in 2020 to over 60 today.

Only a handful of new models are introduced each year. Colors, materials, ultra-thin automatic models with three hands, chronographs, skeleton watches (2021), tourbillons (2022), and gem-set pieces which have met with great success – each iteration testifies to the brand's commitment to artisanal excellence and constant innovation.

Crafted with prestigious partners in the cradle of Swiss watchmaking

Each year, under the leadership of Octavio Garcia, the focus is on integrating new mechanical, aesthetic and material discoveries and combinations, and thus maintaining the momentum of the brand's constant drive for innovation.

In pursuit of style and handcrafted perfection for its calibers, Gerald Charles has forged strategic partnerships with esteemed Swiss manufacturers such as Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier for movement production. This collaboration is the best assurance of the excellence of our watches in terms of craftsmanship but also reliability, precision, and functionality.

Additionally, the brand collaborates with Geneva's renowned gem-setter Salanitro, a partnership that guarantees superior quality in gem selection and setting. This collaboration also encompasses the diverse skills needed to create truly extraordinary timepieces.

2023: Solid operating results in line with a thriving 2022

Today, Gerald Charles boasts a healthy structure, both in terms of inventory and cost management. Since 2020, the brand has seen continuous and significant growth in revenue and operating income. Notably, the average price of watches increased by over 25% in 2023 compared to 2022. This is amributed to a loyal network of collectors and aficionados who increasingly opt for high-end, complicated pieces, and/or those adorned with precious stones (diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires). Demand is evenly distributed across key regions: Asia, Europe, the Middle East, and the United States.

This organic growth underlines the brand's commitment to remaining an exclusive niche label, focusing on limited annual production and favoring complexity over mass production.

Federico Ziviani remarks: “Our handcrafted, bespoke production is inherently limited. Gerald Charles is, and intends to remain, a niche brand, recognized by many but worn by a discerning few. Our utmost priority is to provide value to our collectors, who are our foremost investors. As such, every client who joins our community is accorded the highest respect and esteem.”

2024: Accelerating international development

After participating in numerous international exhibitions, including SIAR in Mexico, WatchTime in NYC and Dubai Watch Week, 2024 promises to be a significant milestone and open new horizons for Gerald Charles – underscoring the brand’s rising prominence and growing recognition within the watch industry.

2024 will see Gerald Charles make its official debut at the Watches & Wonders fair, set to take place in April in Geneva.

Federico Ziviani comments: “For the fourth consecutive year, we have outperformed both the market and our own growth forecasts. Our uniquely flexible manufacturing structure allows us to expand into new creations that evolve with the future, leveraging modern technologies while remaining true to the designs of Mr. Gérald Charles Genta.”

Europe remains a strong anchor market;
US and Middle East rise as leading markets.

With the 'Ambassadors' network in Switzerland, over 10 retail locations in Italy (including Rome, Florence, Milan, and Venice), and prestigious partners like Arije in Paris and Cannes, Dubail, Chocrón in Spain, London Jewelers in the US, and Rüschenbeck in Germany, the emphasis on quality relationships with top-tier retailers and their expertise is as vital as the skills required for watch design.

While many brands manage their boutiques directly, Gerald Charles places its trust in renowned historical retailers of Haute Horlogerie around the world. This network of partners, deeply familiar with the local client and serving as essential ambassadors of the brand’s story, shares similar family values and long-term strategies that align with the brand’s own core.

In early 2024, Gerald Charles will expand its presence in Japan with the opening of three retail locations, with an inaugural event at the Swiss Embassy in Tokyo scheduled for January 30th.

The brand is present in India since last October, thanks to a partnership with the prestigious Ethos Group.

In the Middle East, a region promising great potential for Gerald Charles, significant expansion occurred over the past year with openings in Dubai and Abu Dhabi in partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, in Bahrain with BJC Bahrain Jewellery Center and in Kuwait with Time Keeper and Al Majed Group in Qatar, bolstering the brand's presence in this dynamic region.

The brand is also growing rapidly in the United States, to the extent that a subsidiary, Gerald Charles America Inc., was established in September 2023. Already, five major retail locaJons have been opened, and this is just the beginning.

Federico Ziviani comments: “Entering a significant market like the USA requires a dedicated and strategic approach, given its immense potential. The positive reception by American collectors, drawn to the heritage and versatility of our watches, is testament to this. Over a year was invested in meticulously planning the establishment of our subsidiary, recruiting expert local managers, and orchestrating our launch. This thorough preparation, as a reflection of the high standards that underpin our creations, we believe will ensure the brand’s lasting presence in the US.

Gerald Charles and Tennis: A Perfect Match

Gerald Charles has always cultivated a close relationship with the world of tennis. Building on the success of the three Maestro GC Sport versions and partnerships with ATP Tour professionals like Hubert Hurkacz, Tim van Rijthoven, Nikoloz Basilashvili, and Filippo Volandri, the brand is proud to support its tennis association. Gerald Charles is the Official Timekeeper for the Austrian ATP250 Generali Open in Kitzbühel and the Australian Kooyong Classic in Melbourne.

Hubert Hurkacz of Poland sporting the Maestro GC Sport at the 2023 Shanghai Rolex Masters at Qi Zhong Ten

The Maestro GC Sport collection has been developed and tested in concert with professional tennis players to ensure supreme comfort on and off the court. This positions Gerald Charles as one of the few independent watchmaking brands to create a mechanical watch that professional athletes can comfortably wear during competitions.

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