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Timekeepers Club / June 11, 2024

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz 23mm

Audemars Piguet has unveiled a new miniature Royal Oak quartz model measuring a mere 23 mm diameter and executed in a choice of 18-carat yellow, white or pink gold. These mini monochrome timepieces combine the strong aesthetic codes of the original Royal Oak with the shimmering brilliance of Frosted Gold to create a striking visual effect. Inspired by the Manufacture’s rich history of miniature and jewellery watches, this trio of petite watches offer a contemporary interpretation of the 20 mm Mini Royal Oak launched in 1997. By rethinking the proportions, architecture, design and performance of the smallest Royal Oak ever made, the new “Mini Oak” collection builds on the Manufacture’s legacy to open up horizons for the slenderest wrists, while adapting to contemporary lifestyle with a quartz movement offering over seven years of battery life.

A Refined “Frosted” Jewellery Aesthetic

Blurring the line between jewellery and watchmaking, the Royal Oak Mini models, crafted in 18-carat yellow, pink or white gold, combine the powerful aesthetic codes of the original Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta in 1972, with the delicacy and sophistication of Frosted Gold for a unique, shimmering monochrome aesthetic.

Inspired by an ancient Florentine jewellery technique, the Frosted Gold finish was revisited by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci and adapted by Audemars Piguet artisans in 2016 to adorn the Manufacture’s timepieces. Tiny indentations are made on the gold surface using a diamond-tipped tool, creating a sparkly effect similar to that of precious stones. The visual impact of this decoration underlines the Royal Oak’s affinity with the jewellery world. Back in 1972, Gérald Genta, a trained jeweller, created the Royal Oak with a facetted case and bracelet playing with light like the facets of a diamond. The elaborate integrated bracelet was also reminiscent of the sophisticated metal bracelets that had adorned women’s timepieces since the 19th century.

These mini creations pay tribute not only to Audemars Piguet’s long tradition of miniature and jewellery watches, but also to the women who have left their mark on the history of the brand, including Jacqueline Dimier to whom we owe the first Royal Oak for women, and Carolina Bucci, the mastermind behind the Frosted Gold finish.Ilaria Resta, Chief Executive Officer, Audemars Piguet.

Glamourous play of light

Playing with the Royal Oak’s jewellery sensitivities, the new Mini Oak models contrast the diamond-dust effect of the Frosted Gold with the polished bevels that outline the instantly recognisable octagonal bezel and the individual links of the tapering bracelet, creating an endless play of light. The satin finish on the case and bracelet flanks adds depth, texture and light. For its part, the solid caseback combines sandblasting, satin brushing and polishing to echo the design of the case. This meticulous juxtaposition of finishing techniques required perfect alignment throughout.

The jewellery aesthetic of these dainty creations continues on the dial. The tone-on-tone Petite Tapisserie enhances the play of light created by the Frosted Gold case and bracelet. The luminous dial is complemented by facetted gold hour-markers matching with the colour of the case and filled with luminescent material for optimum visibility in the dark. The Audemars Piguet signature at 12 o’clock is printed in black on a cartouche to enhance legibility, while the date indication and seconds scale have been omitted to enhance both legibility and the refinement of the guilloché dial. True pieces of jewellery, these timepieces will adorn the wrist with the elegance of a bracelet.

Long live quartz

The trio of Royal Oak Mini watches are powered by the quartz movement, Calibre 2730, one of the best in class for watches of this size. With a battery life of over seven years, this movement is ideal for a contemporary lifestyle. In addition, Calibre 2730 is equipped with a “switch”: by simply pulling on the crown, the wearer can deactivate the battery temporarily. In keeping with the tradition of Haute Horlogerie, this quartz mechanism is finished with refined decorations.

Mini watches with a mighty legacy

Since the 19th century, Audemars Piguet has created an array of small watches women that have pushed the boundaries of miniaturisation, gemsetting and aesthetic refinement. From timeless classics and jewellery pieces to avant-garde artistic creations, these timepieces reflect the technical and aesthetic challenges of their respective eras, often anticipating the evolving tastes and expectations of their female clientele.

Audemars Piguet’s first feminine creations featured extremely small complicated mechanisms fitted in elegant, yet discreet pendant, brooch or ring watches, often adorned with enamelled cases set with precious stones. These smaller models served as a platform for innovation, pushing AP craftspeople to explore new realms of miniaturisation and creativity.

The brand developed a host of miniature movements in the early decades of the 20th century, including the world’s smallest 5-minute repeater movement, Calibre 7MV5 (15.8 mm / 7 lignes) in 1921 and Calibre 5/6SB, the Manufacture’s smallest baguette-style movement (15.9 x 5.8 x 3,3 mm) released in 1927. These feats of miniaturisation resulted in the creation of new styles of bracelet watches, wristwatches and pendant watches for both men and women.

Miniaturisation took yet another turn following the introduction in 1972 of the groundbreaking Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta. Jacqueline Dimier, who was at the head of the design office from 1975 to 1999, was tasked with the mission to design a version for women, giving rise to the Royal Oak II in 1976. This timepiece, powered by the small selfwinding Calibre 2062, retained all the codes of the original model (5402) but signifi-cantly reduced its proportions to grace smaller wrists. At 29 mm, Model 8638, and its gemset 8756 derivative, remains the smallest selfwinding Royal Oak ever made.

Small, charming, creative, almost frivolous, the new Royal Oak Mini watches revive a feminine myth born in 1997. They demonstrate the extraordinary plasticity of the Royal Oak collection, which transcends decades, gender, trends and dimensions.Sébastian Vivas, Heritage and Museum Director, Audemars Piguet

The introduction and miniaturisation of quartz movements in the 1980s opened up new horizons for high-performant miniature watches¹, as the efficiency of selfwinding mechanisms decreased significantly below a diameter of 29 mm. In 1980, the Manufacture launched a 26 mm quartz Royal Oak, followed in 1986 by a 24.5 mm version powered by the Calibre 2508. Thinner than its predecessor (1.6 mm vs. 1.98 mm), this quartz mechanism allowed the diameter of the women’s Royal Oak to be reduced by 1.5 mm. The miniaturisation of the Royal Oak culminated in 1997 for the collection’s 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the Manufacture presented the Mini Royal Oak (Model 67075), measuring just 20 mm in diameter, alongside the first Royal Oak Grande Complication (Model 25865) housed in a massive 44 mm case size. Unveiled together, the two watches embodied both the extreme contrasts of the 1990s and the immense creativity of the brand².

The Mini Oak was powered by the quartz Calibre 2601 created by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1982, which was not only the thinnest quartz movement of its time, but also one of the world’s smallest³. 1254 units of this miniature model were released in 1997, including 465 in steel, 328 in yellow gold, 272 in a two-tone combination, 101 in white gold and 88 in pink gold. Two gemset variations, Models 67076 and 67202 were also launched the same year, respectively produced in 549 and 13 units4. In just three years, 26 models saw the light of day with 1965 units documented, all presenting a wide variety of creative designs, ranging from Haute Joaillerie versions to rings, pendants and cuff link reinterpretations.

  1. Between 1980 and 2000, 162 Royal Oak quartz models were created, equipped with 11 different calibres and interpreted in 16 different sizes, from 20 mm to 39 mm, as well as rectangular variants.
  2. To mark the collection’s 25th anniversary, Audemars Piguet also introduced its first Royal Oak Tourbillon and its first Royal Oak Chronograph, expanding the collection in terms of both size and complication.
  3. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 2601 also came to equip a variety of unique creative Haute Joaillerie timepieces at Audemars Piguet.
  4. Model 67076 (gemsetting on bezel) was produced in 549 units, including 79 in yellow gold, 296 in white gold and 174 in pink gold. Model 67202 (gemsetting on dial and bezel) was produced in 13 units, all in white gold.

Inspired by the highly creative Mini Oak models produced at the dawn of the new millennium, the latest Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz timepieces seamlessly bring together heritage and modernity in a powerful design, whose glamour and play of light are sure to catch the eye.

Technical specifications


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz 23 mm

Reference: 67630BA.GG.1312BA.01

Case

  • Material: Hammered 18-carat yellow gold
  • Diameter: 23 mm
  • Thickness: 6.6 mm
  • Glareproofed sapphire crystal
  • Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

  • Yellow-gold-toned dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern
  • Golden pink gold applied hour-markers
  • Yellow gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent material

Movement

  • Quartz Calibre 2730
  • Diameter: 15.7 mm (6 ¾ lignes)
  • Thickness: 2.2 mm
  • Number of jewels: 4
  • Frequency of the quartz 32.768 Hz
  • Battery life 94 months

Functions/Indications

  • Hours and minutes

Strap and buckle

  • Hammered 18-carat yellow gold bracelet with AP folding clasp.

MSRP: CHF 30'000

Technical specifications


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz 23 mm

Reference: 67630OR.GG.1312OR.01

Case

  • Material: Hammered 18-carat pink gold
  • Diameter: 23 mm
  • Thickness: 6.6 mm
  • Glareproofed sapphire crystal
  • Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

  • Pink-gold-toned dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern
  • Pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent material.

Movement

  • Quartz Calibre 2730
  • Diameter: 15.7 mm (6 ¾ lignes)
  • Thickness: 2.2 mm
  • Number of jewels: 4
  • Frequency of the quartz 32.768 Hz
  • Battery life 94 months

Functions/Indications

  • Hours and minutes

Strap and buckle

  • Hammered 18-carat pink gold bracelet with AP folding clasp.

MSRP: CHF 30'000

Technical specifications


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz 23 mm

Reference: 67630BC.GG.1312BC.01

Case

  • Material: Hammered 18-carat white gold
  • Diameter: 23 mm
  • Thickness: 6.6 mm
  • Glareproofed sapphire crystal
  • Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

  • Rhodium-toned dial with Petite Tapisserie pattern
  • Rhodium-toned pink gold applied hour-markers
  • White gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent material.

Movement

  • Quartz Calibre 2730
  • Diameter: 15.7 mm (6 ¾ lignes)
  • Thickness: 2.2 mm
  • Number of jewels: 4
  • Frequency of the quartz 32.768 Hz
  • Battery life 94 months

Functions/Indications

  • Hours and minutes

Strap and buckle

  • Hammered 18-carat white gold bracelet with AP folding clasp.

MSRP: CHF 30'000

For more information, please visit audemarspiguet.com

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