Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Camouflage Gemset 41mm

Following on the footsteps of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow Sets launched in 2022, the Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet continues to explore highly creative settings. This year, the Manufacture presents two fully paved 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding models with a camouflage pattern that extends from the dial to the case and bracelet. The motif is made up of 861 baguette-cut gemstones in graduated shades of blue or in green, brown and black tones – an industry first. Each stone has been meticulously selected and custom cut to create a seamless harmony between the various components and result in an original mix of colours. Bringing together Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie in a creative dialogue, these timepieces open up new aesthetic possibilities for the brand.

An unprecedented camouflage design

Since its inception, the Manufacture has pushed the boundaries of the craft, pioneering avant-garde aesthetics with a variety of shapes, colours, finishing techniques and gemsetting. This year, it is exploring the creative possibilities of camouflage patterns, which made their debut at Audemars Piguet in 2018 on the rubber straps of Royal Oak Offshore models. While AP’s R&D department unveiled new polychrome materials with a similar motif ¹ earlier this year, the Manufacture reinterprets this emblematic design once again, this time through gemsetting.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm Ref. 15514BC.YY.1284BC.04 © Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

The camouflage of the two new 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding models is formed by 861 baguette-cut coloured gemstones that fully cover the case, bracelet and dial. While the first timepiece is adorned with graded blue sapphires and Swiss blue topaz (~ 44.32 carats), the second reference combines black sapphires, intense and light tsavorites and smoky quartz (~ 39.91 carats) to create harmonious shades of green, brown and black.

Finding the right stones, colours and contrasts, while meeting Audemars Piguet’s strict criteria for colour, clarity and quality, was a crucial step in the design of these two timepieces. Each gemstone underwent an intensive quality control process. After a rigorous selection made by the supplier, an additional check was carried out at Audemars Piguet to ensure overall harmony. Finally, the purity and gemmological nature of the stones were verified by an external laboratory.

To create a harmonious camouflage effect that could be repeated throughout the watch, we carefully selected a variety of gemstones, including some rarely used in the watchmaking industry. The use of tsavorites, smoky quartz and black sapphires for the green timepiece and Swiss blue topaz combined with blue sapphires for the blue version allowed us to enrich the colour palette and achieve more subtle gradations. Finally, the invisible setting enhances the tone of each gemstone, giving the two timepieces volume and depth.” Samira Ribeaucourt Gemmologist, Audemars Piguet.

Art of invisible settings

To match the architecture of the Royal Oak case, bracelet and dial, the coloured gemstones were individually cut into baguettes of 179 different sizes, before being hand polished to present sharp and clear angles. The quality of the cut is as important as the intrinsic quality and clarity of the stones. Not only must they be loupe clean (i.e., no inclusions visible when examining the gemstone with a x10 loupe). Their lines and stepped facets must also be perfectly symmetrical and aligned to allow light to pass through.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm Ref. 15514BC.YY.1284BC.02 © Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

The Manufacture chose the intricate technique of invisible setting for the dial, the bracelet links and some of the case elements.² Tiny grooves were delicately carved into the baguettes, which were then carefully snapped one by one into a hidden rail embedded in the gold component, using as little material as possible to give the impression that the stones are holding on their own. The complexity also lies in achieving seamless alignment – a painstaking task that requires extreme precision.

The dial alone is covered with 152 gemstones, cut in 28 different sizes – a technical feat given the thinness of the gold plate on which they are set. To give them pride of place, the hour-markers have been omitted, while the “Audemars Piguet” signature and the “Swiss Made” indication have been discreetly printed in white on the underside of the sapphire crystal.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm Ref. 15514BC.YY.1284BC.04 © Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

The invisible setting influenced the entire fabrication process of the dial and bracelet links, from their construction and precise manufacturing to their finishing. The technical and gemsetting teams worked hand in hand through all stages of production to push creativity, while retaining the collection’s aesthetic codes and ensuring water-resistance, reliability, robustness and repairability.³

² Note, however, that the technique of closed setting has been used on the bezel, studs and crown of the different timepieces.
³ The gemsetting of a watch influences its geometries and resistance as well as impacts its entire fabrication process.

A latest-generation selfwinding calibre

The two timepieces are powered by Calibre 4309, the most recent selfwinding hours, minutes and seconds movement in this diameter developed by the Manufacture. The date indication has been left out to give pre-eminence to the gemsetting on the dial.

Back view of Calibre 4309. © Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

The movement is equipped with a patented mechanism that provides stability and precision when setting the watch. In addition, its generous 32 mm in diameter enables optimal timekeeping precision, while its power reserve of a least 70 hours is ideal for contemporary lifestyles.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm Ref. 15514BC.YY.1284BC.02. © Courtesy of Audemars Piguet

The movement’s rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight and its emblematic Haute Horlogerie decorations, such as Côtes de Genève, satin brushing, circular graining and polished chamfers, can be admired through the timepieces’ sapphire casebacks.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm Ref. 15514BC.YY.1284BC.02

Technical specifications

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm

Reference: 15514BC.YY.1284BC.02

Case

Material: 18-carat white gold case and bezel set with a total of 132 baguette-cut gemstones (black sapphires, intense and light tsavorites and smoky quartz) (~ 10.48 carats)
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 11.6 mm
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Water-resistant to 20 meters

Dial and hands

Dial set with 152 baguette-cut gemstones (black sapphires, light and intense tsavorites and smoky quartz) (~ 9.83 carats)
White gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent material

Movement

Selfwinding Calibre 4309
Diameter: 32 mm (14 lignes)
Thickness: 4.9 mm
Number of parts: 225
Number of jewels: 32
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 70 h
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)

Functions/Indications

Hours, minutes and centre seconds.

Strap and buckle

18-carat white gold bracelet set with 577 baguette-cut gemstones (black sapphires, light and intense tsavorites and smoky quartz) (~ 19.6 carats)
AP folding clasp

MSRP: TBC

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm Ref. 15514BC.YY.1284BC.04

Technical specifications

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm

Reference: 15514BC.YY.1284BC.04