Audemars Piguet Unveils A New Polychrome Gold

After unveiling a new form of multi-coloured ceramic called chroma ceramic in March 2024, Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is proud to present a new material called chroma gold with a camouflage motif. This patented polychrome gold is obtained thanks to the latest Spark Plasma Sintering (SPS) technology, which enables the rapid sintering of powered gold, and which has already been used in the development of chroma ceramic. Created by Audemars Piguet’s R&D teams, this new blend of gold alloys opens up new creative horizons. This unprecedented material is presented on a prototype at the Seek Beyond: Shaping Materials exhibition in Milan.

A patented innovation

Always experimenting with innovative materials, Audemars Piguet has developed and patented a new precious blend. Like the polychrome ceramic presented at the beginning of the year, the new chroma gold has been obtained by using Spark Plasma Sintering (SPS) technology, which significantly reduces the sintering time from several hours to just a few dozen minutes.

To create this multi-coloured camouflage motif, the different colours of gold are transformed separately: the gold is first melted before the droplets are atomised into powder. Each powder is then carefully placed in a circular graphite mould to create the desired pattern. The mould is then sintered by passing a powerful electric current through the graphite. This current creates a meteoric rise in temperature which, combined with the mechanical pressure on both sides of the mould, allows extremely rapid sintering to take place. The resulting disc reveals the various shades of gold that have been harmoniously combined during the powder distribution process.

A first for the watchmaking industry, this process required the mastery of SPS technology and involved numerous tests to find the right distribution of gold hues to achieve the desired aesthetic effect. In addition, the compression of the gold powders during the sintering cycle makes each piece unique, as the pattern varies slightly from model to model. Despite these subtle variations, this technique ensures visual consistency between the different components. Each disc produced can be used to create a case, a bezel or bracelet links, enhancing the unique appearance of the whole.

The various components are then pre-polished and pre-satin-brushed before being meticulously hand-finished to create the Manufacture’s trademark alternation of satin finishing and polished chamfers. These finishes enhance the play of light typical of the Royal Oak collection and bring out the nuances of yellow, white and pink gold.

Constant research into innovative materials

Audemars Piguet has always combined avant-garde, if not disruptive, materials and aesthetics. This creativity reflects the pioneering spirit that the Manufacture has nurtured for generations and it is thanks to the meticulous work of its artisans that some materials, such as steel, titanium, carbon or ceramic have been ennobled and given a place in the world of watchmaking.

Since the launch of the Royal Oak (5402ST) in 1972, with its steel armour featuring high-end finishes hitherto reserved for gold, Audemars Piguet has used a wide range of materials over the years. The Royal Oak Offshore collection has served as a platform for the introduction of new materials, including titanium in 1998, forged carbon in 2004 and ceramic in 2008, a material first used in the Bamboo collection in the late 1980s. The Royal Oak Concept took the quest for material innovation even further when it was launched in 2002 with a case combining titanium and Alacrite 602, a light and extremely resistant high-tech alloy. In 2008, the Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon and Chronograph marked a new milestone in avant-garde design. In 2023, Audemars Piguet introduced a precious form of Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG), which premiered on a Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin model (ref. 16202XT), a new first in the watchmaking industry.

Today, the Manufacture extends its range of possibilities with the launch of chroma gold. This blend of gold hues opens up new horizons in terms of the combination of precious materials, personalisation and design, heralding a colourful future.