Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer in Lucent Steel™

Chopard introduces a continuation model of the original, iconic L.U.C 1860 to honour the 30th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. This new edition preserves the spirit of the original model while integrating the technical progress achieved over the past three decades.

Like its predecessor, this new timepiece features a 36.5 mm case, ideal proportions that will delight fine watch collectors. It is crafted in Lucent Steel™ and stands out with its “Areuse Blue” dial – a colour inspired by the Areuse River that flows near the Manufacture in the Val-de-Travers region. This river, known for its dramatic gorges and ever-changing shades of deep blue, symbolises continuity and connection to nature. Its vivid colours, shaped by light, stone and movement, evoke the cool, bright tone used on the dial.

The 18-carat white gold dial is hand-guilloché with a sunburst pattern, using a vintage guilloché lathe operated by in-house artisans. Additional guilloché rings structure the dial, catching the light and adding depth. A satin-brushed chapter ring, polished white gold chevron-shaped hour markers, and Dauphine hands contribute to its overall clarity and harmony. The small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock completes the symmetrical design, which intentionally avoids a date display to preserve purity. The watch is paired with a grey grained calfskin strap.

The timepiece houses the L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L, a direct evolution of the first movement conceived and produced by Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier in 1996. At just 3.30 mm thin, this self-winding movement incorporates a 22-carat gold micro-rotor that efficiently winds two stacked barrels, thanks to Chopard’s Twin technology, providing a 65-hour power reserve. The calibre is Chronometer-certified (COSC) for precision and includes a stop-seconds function and a swan’s neck regulator for fine adjustment. Each component is meticulously finished by hand, with polished, bevelled and decorated surfaces in line with Poinçon de Genève standards.

The watch carries the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, guaranteeing exceptional craftsmanship for both the movement and the case. Achieving this certification in steel is particularly rare due to the demanding finishing requirements. Lucent Steel™ enhances the visual impact of these fine finishes.

30 years of Chopard Manufacture Fleurier

Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier was founded in 1996 at the initiative of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele (Co-president of Chopard), with the goal of preserving traditional Swiss watchmaking know-how while integrating major innovations. Since the first Manufacture movement (L.U.C 96.01-L), the workshops have mastered all major watchmaking complications under the aegis of the L.U.C collection, named after the Maison’s founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard. The Manufacture maintains a high level of finishing thanks to the preservation of numerous artistic crafts and skills. The 30th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier is marked by the introduction of exceptional new timepieces, including the L.U.C Grand Strike grande sonnerie model.

Traditional hand-guilloché

Chopard Manufacture is among the few Maisons to equip its watches with hand-guilloché dials since the first L.U.C 1860, a rarity explained by the extremely high level of manual skill required and the very limited number of historic machines still in operation. Its artisans use period guilloché lathes to decorate dials with continuous geometric patterns. The movement of the lathe is controlled entirely by the artisan without digital assistance, enabling a depth and regularity impossible to replicate by machine.

Chronometer certification

The Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) independently certifies the precision of movements. Uncased movements undergo 15 days of testing in five positions and three temperature ranges. All L.U.C movements featuring a seconds indication are subjected to this protocol, ensuring a daily rate variation between –4 and +6 seconds per day.

Poinçon de Genève

The Poinçon de Genève is an independent certification applied to the movement and, since 2012, to the entire watch. It is one of the oldest and most prestigious distinctions in Swiss watchmaking. It imposes strict criteria regarding reliability, craftsmanship, and provenance (assembly, adjustment, and casing must be carried out within the Canton of Geneva).

Chopard Twin Technology

Developed by Chopard Manufacture, Chopard Twin Technology is a system using two stacked barrels, allowing for an extended power reserve (approximately 65 hours) while preserving the calibre’s thin profile. As the barrels work in parallel, they supply more consistent energy. Integrated into several L.U.C calibres, this architecture enhances the stability of energy delivered to the balance wheel, improving precision.

Technical specifications

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer in Lucent Steel™

Reference: 168860-3005

Case

• Material: Lucent Steel™
• Diameter: 36.50 mm
• Thickness: 8.20 mm
• Notched crown in Lucent Steel™ with engraved L.U.C logo: 5 mm
• Vertical satin-brushed flanks and inter-horn space
• Polished bezel and case-back surround
• Sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
• Exhibition sapphire crystal pane fitted on the case-back
• Water-resistant to 30 metres

Dial and hands

• Hand-guilloché “Areuse Blue” gold dial
• Satin-brushed chapter ring
• Snailed small seconds counter
• White gold chevron hour-markers
• White gold Dauphine hours and minutes hands
• White gold baton-type small seconds hand

Movement

• Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.40-L
• Number of components: 176
• Diameter: 27.40 mm
• Thickness: 3.30 mm
• Number of jewels: 29
• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve of 65 hours
• Two barrels – Chopard Twin technology
• Winding via a micro-rotor in engraved ethical 22-carat gold
• Bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif
• Annular balance
• Swan’s-neck regulator
• Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
• Chronometer-certified by the COSC
• Poinçon de Genève quality label

Functions/Indications

• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Stop-second function

Strap and buckle

• Anthracite grey grained calfskin leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching
• Lucent Steel™ pin buckle with L.U.C engraving

MSRP: EUR 28'200

For more information, please visit chopard.com