De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky

Independent watchmaker De Bethune continues to revamp its 40 mm DB25 collection presenting a new perpetual calendar featuring a starry sky and the Milky Way at Dubai Watch Week.

De Bethune offers a 40 mm version of its DB25 Perpetual Calendar, designed for slender wrists without compromising on the brand's aesthetic codes and technical innovations. This resizing required a complete overhaul of the model's structure designed to preserve the legibility, comfort and performance of a Manufacture perpetual calendar.

Design and comfort

The signature DB25 case retains its slim lines and slanted, hollowed-out lugs, ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrisz. Made from grade 5 titanium, it combines a smaller diameter with a very light feel procuring exceptional comfort.

Reading the perpetual calendar

The perpetual calendar is displayed against a backdrop of a starry sky and the Milky Way. The display is based on a multi-level architecture consisting of ring-shaped appliques circling the subdials and a silver-toned minutes track. The date is positioned at 6 o'clock, while the day and montn apertures are located at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock respectively. The time is indicated with both accuracy and elegance by manuallyfinished, mirror-polished curved yellow gold hands.

At 12 o'clock, a palladium/blued steel sphere displays the moon phases as observed in the sky - an innovation patented by De Bethune in 2004 - while a gold disc below indicates the leap-year cycle.

Craftsmanship: De Bethune's starry sky and Milky Way

For several years now, the starry sky and Miky Way have been an integral part of the Maison's history. Defined according to a specific geographical location and date, this pattern enables subtle personalisation of the flat polished blued titanium dial. After delicate polishing and bluing operations using a thermal oxidation process exclusive to the Manufacture, our artisans set each white gold pin into micro-perforations of varying sizes, bringing to life a poetic depiction of the starry sky. After laser-bearn micro-milling, the Milky Way is gradually revealed through the handcrafted application of 24-carat gold leaf.

A refined, modern calibre delivering optimal performance

Entirely developed in the workshops at L'Auberson, the DB2005V3 hand-wound calibre benefits - like all in-house movements - from all the achievements of De Bethune's technology and research since its founding. It notably features a perpetual calendar; a spherical moon indicating the phases of the moon with a degree of precision corresponding to a one-day deviation in 122 years; a self-regulating double barrel; a titanium/white gold balance wheel, a "De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve; a silicon escape-wheel and a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system. A sapphire caseback enables the viewer to appreciate the great aesthetic care devoted to its refined mechanics. Innovations and patented solutions are continuously updated by the Technical Office to optimise reliability and performance.

Expertise and workshop exclusivity

More than 330 components are designed, crafted and decorated by hand, then assembled by a Grand Complication watchmaker in the Haute Horlogerie workshop.

Created, crafted and tested for reliability within our Manufacture, our perpetual calendar stems from artisanal work performed a few expert hands and many hours spent at the workbench. It is this high standard that makes each watch an exceptional timepiece, of which | am particularly proud.” - Denis Flageollet.

Given the delicacy and complexity of the work involved, the DB25 Perpetual Sky is available in a limited annual edition, produced at the pace of the workshops in L'Auberson. To ensure maximum comfort on the wrist, the timepiece is fitted with an alligator strap and titanium buckle.

Technical specifications

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Sky

Reference: DB25SQPV2

Limited annual production

Case

• Material: Grade 5 titanium
• Diameter: 40 mm
• Thickness: 11.30 mm
• Lugs: Integrated, hollowed lugs
• Glass: Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
• Case back: Open back in polished titanium
• Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
• Water-resistant to 3 ATM

Dial and hands

• Blued polished titanium starry sky with white gold stars – milky way created by laser micro - engraving and 24 - carat gold leaf inlay
• Silver - toned hours and minutes ring with Roman numerals and transfers
• Blued date ring with 3N - gilded transfers
• Hand - curved, mirror - polished yellow gold hands
• Perpetual calendar apertures indicating the day of the week at 9 o’clock and the month at 3 o’clock on blue discs with 3N - glided transfers
• Sub-dial at 6 o’clock indicating the day of the month
• Leap year indicated by a gold pastille appearing in the starry sky at 12 o’clock
• Spherical moon phase indication in palladium and blued steel with an accuracy of one lunar day every 122 years at 12 o’clock – De Bethune Patent (2004)

Movement

• Calibre DB2005 V3
• Number of parts: 339
• Number of jewels: 27
• Diameter: 30 mm
• Power reserve of 5 days, ensured by a self - regulating twin barrel De Bethune Innovation (2004)
• Specificities : Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration De Bethune Patent (2016)
• "De Bethune" balance - spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
• Silicon escape wheel
• Spherical moon phase indication accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years – De Bethune Patent (2004)
• Triple pare - chute shock - absorbing system De Bethune Innovation (2005)
• Frequency : 28'800 vibrations per hour
• Adornment : Polished Grade 5 titanium cover plate
• Mirror - polished steel barrel bridge cover
• Hand - snailed barrels
• Handcrafted finishes and decorations

Functions/Indications

• Hours, minutes
• Spherical moon phase indication at 12 o’clock and leap-year indication
• Perpetual calendar indicating the month at 3 o’clock
• The date at 6 o’clock and the day of the week at 9 o’clock

Strap and buckle

• Extra - supple alligator leather, alligator lining
• Pin buckle in polished titanium

MSRP: CHF 125'000 (excl. taxes)

For more information, please visit debethune.ch