Timekeepers Club / September 7, 2023

De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue

On the occasion of the 2023 Geneva Watch Days, De Bethune unveiled the new DB28XP Kind of Blue. The independent watchmaker is proud to announce the latest addition to its collection of iconic timepieces. This new creation is the result of the union between the proven elegance of the DB28XP and the timeless charm of the DB28 Kind of Blue, offering watch enthusiasts an exceptional piece that harmoniously combines tradition and innovation.

A natural evolution of excellence

The DB28XP Kind of Blue is the natural evolution of two iconic models from De Bethune: the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue. It embodies the best of both worlds by combining the sleek design and refinement of the DB28XP with a completely blue look, inspired by the DB28 Kind of Blue and bearing the Manufacture's signature.

A captivating dial

Here, it's all about levels of interpretation, reliefs, and the interplay of light with shadows and reflections. Crafted from blued titanium, the watch reveals an architectural fusion of space, time, and light at first glance. Its deep and luminous blue is achieved through the natural oxidation of the material, making each watch a unique work of art.

The dial, entirely made of Microlight, reimagines and modernizes traditional guilloché technique. On its expansive flat surface, this technique gains new meaning and enhances the structure. By playing with shadow and light, it adds depth and delivers a more architectural and dynamic result. The overall effect becomes more contemporary.

Ultra-thin according to De Bethune

De Bethune opened a chapter in the world of ultra-thin watches in 2020 with the launch of the DB28XP, celebrating ten years of mechanical and aesthetic research and work. In his pursuit of an ultra-thin timepiece, Denis Flageollet envisioned it as both a technical and aesthetic challenge—the complexity of slimness, an adventure that demands precision and harmony between design and constraints.

As if by fate, the DB28XP has now become an embodiment of beauty, an elegance that epitomizes purity in its most absolute form.

All of De Bethune's watchmaking expertise

The manual-winding movement DB2115v12 is equipped with the De Bethune balance wheel, visible through the dial thanks to its opening at 6 o'clock. It is the result of De Bethune's constant physical and mathematical approach to improve its operation. It benefits from the latest advancements, with a not overly large diameter, made of titanium and fitted with small gray gold weights placed externally, providing it with remarkable inertia, reliability, and regulating quality.

Equipped with the renowned De Bethune hairspring, this tiny, extremely thin spring considered the heart of the mechanical watch has been designed to keep its center of gravity precisely in the center by using a flat curve fixed on the outside of the hairspring. Variations in the thickness of the blade contribute to nearly perfect concentric development. Among the numerous advantages are reduced height, improved adjustment of concentricity quality, finer balance wheel adjustment, eliminating the need for pins, and the curved shape even acts as a shock absorber in case of impact.

Finally, the internal structure of the material remains intact, as it has been neither stressed nor bent. Through these various tried and continually developing enhancements, De Bethune has increased the power reserve efficiency by +20%, bringing it to a total of 6 days, visible through the sapphire glass case back, allowing connoisseurs to marvel at the complexity and beauty of each component.

Equally visible and geometrically positioned relative to the caliber's mainplate, the assembly is protected by the exclusive triple shock-absorbing system. De Bethune was not only the first to design a bridge held from both sides in a symmetrical manner, which keeps the balance wheel perfectly in place, but also to add two shock absorbers at each end, in addition to the balance wheel's own shock absorber. Hence the name 'triple shock absorber,' which, with its springs instead of screws mounted on perfectly polished axes, effectively absorbs and dampens violent impacts.

Comfort and innovation

Like all models in its collection, the DB28XP Kind of Blue never fails to surprise us with the lightweight nature of its case, entirely crafted from polished blue-tinged grade 5 titanium with a microlight caseband, mounted on mobile cradles that adapt to the size and various movements of the wrist, a patented De Bethune system. A more curved caseband, following the wrist's lines. The Microlight finish of the mainplate is echoed on the sides, extending to the outer edge of the caseband, a meticulous and challenging task to achieve in the absence of simple geometric elements. The ensemble is completed with an alligator strap with a titanium buckle, contributing to the practical and comfortable wear of this timepiece.

Technical specifications

De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue

Reference: DB28XPB

Limited edition of 25 pieces


  • Material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle
  • Diameter: 43 mm
  • Thickness: 8.5 mm
  • Lugs: Polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs – De Bethune Patent (2006)
  • Crystal: Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
  • Caseback: Screwed case back in blued grade 5 polished titanium that opens on a linear power reserve indicator
  • Sapphire (1,800 Vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective coating
  • Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM)

Dial and hands

  • Blued grade 5 polished titanium hours ring with polished rose gold spherical hour-markers
  • Blued circular satin-brushed grade 5 titanium minutes ring
  • Blued grade 5 polished titanium barrel bridge and blued triangular central bridge guards with straight-grained chamfered contours
  • Titanium dial base with “microlight” decoration centred on the balance – De Bethune Innovation (2007)
  • Polished rose gold hands


  • Caliber DB2115v12
  • Mechanical hand-wound movement
  • Adjustment: Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions)
  • Diameter: 30 mm
  • Number of parts: 247
  • Number of jewels: 36
  • Frequency: 28'800 vph (4 Hz)
  • Power reserve: 6 days, ensured by a self-regulating twin barrel – De Bethune Innovation (2004)
  • Adornment: Hand-crafted finishing and decoration


  • Titanium balance with white gold inserts, optimised for temperature differences and air penetration – De Bethune Patent (2016)
  • "De Bethune" balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006)
  • Silicon escape wheel
  • Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system – De Bethune Innovation (2005)

Strap and buckle

  • Strap: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining
  • Buckle: Blued grade 5 polished titanium buckle and pin


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