Favre Leuba's Renaissance

At Geneva Watch Days 2024, Favre Leuba has announced its triumphant return, celebrating 287 years of unrivaled watchmaking excellence. With a renewed vision and innovative spirit, the brand is set to unveil three stunning new collections that blend heritage with modernity.

• A Major New Milestone: Favre Leuba, a centuries-old watch brand, is embarking on a revival with an ambitious relaunch plan that is unprecedented in the industry.

• Heritage and Legacy: Founded in 1737, Favre Leuba stands as one of the oldest Swiss watch brands, embodying nearly three centuries of continuous innovation.

• Leadership and Vision: Led by industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, Favre Leuba's revival is supported by seasoned watchmaking experts and significant investments..

• A breath of fresh creativity: With a clear, rejuvenated, and refreshed brand identity, Favre Leuba kicks off its comeback with three new collections – Chief, Deep Blue, Sea Sky – entirely rethought by designers Antoine Tschumi and Laurent Auberson. Combining new designs and movements, this lineup is first proof of the brand’s profound transformation.

• 22 new references illustrate Favre Leuba's ambition to produce several thousand pieces annually within three years. The price range – from 2,250 to 4,375 CHF – testifies to Favre Leuba’s commitment to delivering excellent value along with exceptional watchmaking.

• Future Ambitions: Committed to producing thousands of watches annually within three years, Favre Leuba aims to set new standards in horological craftsmanship.

Vision and Ambition

Some watch brands stand out for their resilience. Favre Leuba is one of these Maisons, with a history that began in 1737 and continues to shine, backed by an immense heritage. Today, Favre Leuba enters a new era, one of significant transformation. Under the leadership of Patrik Hoffmann, a team of watchmaking experts is writing a new chapter in the continuing story of this centuries-old brand. The brand’s ambitious roadmap and robust relaunch plan point to an exceptional transformation in both scope and depth. The goal is to re-energize the brand while reinventing it to reach new horizons.

Favre Leuba is not just a watch brand; it's a symbol of resilience and innovation for the entire watchmaking industry. We honor our past and our collective heritage while embracing the future, creating watches that embody the pioneering spirit of our founders,” explains Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Favre Leuba. "The relaunch of Favre Leuba marks an extraordinary transformation. With a team of seasoned experts and an ambitious strategic vision, we are determined to restore this legendary brand to its rightful place in the global watchmaking landscape."

Favre Leuba is one of the oldest and most iconic Swiss watch brands, a true legend that has preserved its heritage without interruption. Founded in Le Locle, in the Neuchâtel mountains, in 1737, the brand is now headquartered in Grenchen, in the canton of Solothurn – where watchmaking workshops and a museum will be established in the coming months.

This relaunch, orchestrated by experts and supported by an international network, reconnects with the brand’s legendary heritage in a spectacular fashion: with 22 new watch references in the catalog, Favre Leuba’s revival is a complete reinterpretation.

The brand’s exceptional heritage and distinctive DNA will be highlighted with renewed clarity. Always very international, the distribution network is being further reinforced to reach an even wider audience. The brand returns with an ambitious offering of three watch families, each equipped with distinct movements, to reflect a depth and breadth rarely seen in a relaunch lineup. Favre Leuba is positioning itself as a global commercial brand, ready to compete with the majors in the industry while remaining true to its Swiss heritage. This comprehensive and ambitious strategy promises to redefine Favre Les place in the watchmaking world.

With a special focus on authenticity and innovation, this relaunch embodies a vision that is firmly oriented towards the future while honoring the brand’s centuries-old traditions. Favre Leuba is poised to conquer new horizons and write a new chapter in the history of Swiss watchmaking.

History

From its founding by master watchmaker Abraham Favre in 1737 to pioneering innovations like the Bivouac and Bathy, Favre Leuba's history is a testament to its relentless pursuit of excellence. Each era has seen the brand push boundaries, whether through groundbreaking collaborations with legendary Breguet or creating timepieces favored by explorers and adventurers.

1700s – The Origins: A Family Adventure: The story of Favre Leuba begins with Abraham Favre, a master watchmaker passionate about his craft. In 1792, his son Frédéric joined him and the workshop was officially incorporated as ‘A. Favre & Fils.’ Innovation quickly became their hallmark, with the introduction of new mechanisms and novel designs. In 1815, Frédéric’s son Henry-Auguste partnered with watchmaker and merchant Auguste Leuba, marking the birth of Favre Leuba. In 1855, his grandson Fritz married Adèle-Fanny Leuba, which further strengthened the family and commercial ties.

In 1764, Abraham Favre collaborated with iconic figures like Jacques-Frédéric Houriet and Abraham-Louis Breguet, cementing a long tradition of excellence.

1800s – Expansion and International Recognition: In the 19th century, under the leadership of Fritz Favre, the company expanded internationally, exporting its watches to India, China, and the Americas. Explorers and adventurers, especially, prized Favre Leuba watches for their quality combined with robustness and precision. In 1851, Favre Leuba pocket watches received international awards, solidifying their global reputation. In 1865, Favre Leuba became the first Swiss watch brand to enter the Indian market, establishing a lasting presence.

1900s – Innovations and Major Contributions: Throughout its history, Favre Leuba never stopped innovating. In 1962, the brand introduced the Bivouac, the world’s first wristwatch equipped with an aneroid barometer, capable of mechanically measuring atmospheric pressure and altitude – an innovation acclaimed by mountaineers and extreme sports enthusiasts. 

In 1968, the brand launched the Bathy, a revolutionary watch featuring a mechanical depth gauge for divers, further enhancing its reputation in the realm of technical watches. The 1970s and 1980s were marked by the quartz crisis, which upended the Swiss watchmaking industry. Despite its many innovations, Favre Leuba felt the impact of this challenging period. The brand faced turbulent times, but its heritage and craftsmanship remained intact.

2000s – A Journey of Transformation and Reinvention: Favre Leuba made a notable return to the forefront of the watchmaking scene in 2007 with the Mercury Collection – a striking trio featuring a Chronograph in rose gold, a Big Date in rose gold, and a Power Reserve in steel. At BaselWorld 2017, they introduced the Raider Bivouac 9000, the only watch to measure altitude up to 9000m mechanically, earning the New Star 2018 Award from WatchStars. Throughout the decade, Favre Leuba has supported athletes and explorers, such as Pen Hadow's Arctic Mission and mountaineer Adrian Ballinger, who set a record on Mount Everest with the Raider Bivouac 9000 in 2018. Celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Bathy in 2018, they launched the Raider Bathy 120 MemoDepth. In 2024, Favre Leuba begins a fresh chapter with three collections comprising 22 all-new references presented at Geneva Watch Days.

Timeline

1718: Abraham Favre begins his watchmaking apprenticeship.
1737: Abraham Favre is established as an independent watchmaker in Le Locle.
1764: Collaboration with Jacques-Frederic Houriet and Abraham Louis Breguet.
1792: Abraham’s sons Frédéric and Henry-Louis join the business, marking the start of the ‘A. Favre & Fils’ dynasty.
1815: The Favre family partners with watchmaker Auguste Leuba, creating the Favre Leuba brand.
1851: Favre Leuba pocket watches win international awards.
1865: Favre Leuba is the first Swiss brand to enter the Indian market
1945: International expansion regains momentum after World War II
1962: The Bivouac, the world's first wristwatch with an aneroid barometer is introduced.
1968: The Bathy, the first watch to mechanically display the dive depth, is launched.
1985: The quartz crisis leads to a change in ownership.
2024: The brand is relaunched internationally at Geneva Watch Days.

Adventures in Style

Favre Leuba has always had a bold streak, exploring a vast array of styles. The new collection reflects this rich history across different eras. Drawing from a treasure trove of vintage pieces painstakingly documented by archivists and designers, Favre Leuba revisits its legacy. The brand’s relaunch heralds a significant aesthetic update; it stays true to the watches’ original design cues while aligning them with current trends, without fundamentally altering the shape or core functionality.

Similarly, Favre Leuba has always prioritized excellence in both craftsmanship and engineering. Known for robustness, functionality, and precision, the brand’s timepieces were considered true instruments of exploration. These purpose-designed watches, valued for their versatility, were conceived as trusted companions on the conquest of new frontiers – a testament to the brand’s pioneering spirit in watch engineering. Ultimately, each model carries within it a blend of tradition and innovation, of robustness and elegance.

Today, as Favre Leuba begins a new chapter, the brand leverages its legacy to create ‘active’ yet eminently elegant watches, everyday watches that combine functionality and style for any circumstance.

Chief Collection – A Distinctive Aesthetic

Price Segment: The Chief collection is positioned in the 2,300 - 4,375 CHF range.
Distinct Sub-Families: The collection comprises two sub-families: Chief Chronograph (41mm) and Chief Date (40mm).
New Models: 6 new references: 3 for the Chief Chronograph; 3 for the Chief Date.
Exceptional: The collection features the most intricately finished
Movements: movements from Manufacture La Joux-Perret, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland: the L113 and the G100.
Reinterpreted Design: A modernized retro look from the 70s, blending tradition and innovation for a contemporary aesthetic.

Completely restyled, the Chief collection embodies a subtle blend between the original watch and new, more modern aspirations; a reinterpretation of its original, distinctive design cues, in tune with the zeitgeist.

We explored our archives to create models inspired by our rich heritage," emphasizes Patrik Hoffmann. "The cornerstone of Favre Leuba's relaunch is the Chief collection. The original piece that inspired this collection, the 1970 Chrono Valjoux 23 hand-wound, already featured a square-curved case that softened slightly at the four corners. With the Chief, our goal is to develop a complete collection that will incorporate a variety of movements of different sizes in the future, embodying the full potential of our renewal with elegance and innovation.”

Chief Chronograph

The Chief Chronograph retains the distinctive design elements of the 70s, updated with a contemporary, sporty aesthetic.

The vintage-inspired ‘cushion’ case accentuates a modern sport-chic profile. At first glance, the watch seems unchanged, but a three-quarter view reveals the case’s subtle redesign: grooves on the flanks harmoniously follow the shape of the pushers. The lugs, borrowed from the historical predecessor, now exhibit more streamlined lines, while the ovoid shape on the outside of the case evokes compactness and fluidity.

The eye is naturally drawn to the magnificent sunburst dial, which is available in three color variations – blue, ice blue, and black. Crafted to the highest standards, it requires over 100 meticulous production steps. The impression of depth creates a striking contrast, enhanced by two raised sub-dials – a showcase for an exceptional level of finish. With the bi-compax counters positioned at 9 and 3 o’clock for precise minute and second readings, the Chief Chronograph perfectly embodies Favre Leuba's commitment to innovation and quality. Featuring a tachymeter scale on the inner flange to measure speed, a must on sports chronographs, this dial further stands out with refined details. A stylized hourglass in 3D – the emblem of Favre Leuba – at 6 o’clock adds a touch of sophistication.

The hands and applied indices, rhodium-plated and multifaceted, feature brushed and sandblasted finishes; they are coated with Super-LumiNova®, which both underlines the impression of visual depth and ensures optimum readability under low light conditions. The baton-shaped hour markers with triangular tips subtly echo the design of the hands, creating aesthetic unity.

The bezel-less 41mm case in 316L steel stands out with a circular brush finish on top and a satin-brushed finish on the four facets. Featuring an open back with a sapphire crystal, the case is water-resistant to a depth of to 100 meters. On the crown, Favre Leuba’s hallmark stylized hourglass.

The integrated steel bracelet with H-shaped links, complemented by a deployant clasp for optimal comfort, follows through on the ergonomics of the case design. The rubber strap option allows for emphasizing the ‘sport’ in the watch’s sport-chic vibe.

Within the Chief Chronograph beats the traditional La Joux-Perret L113 chronograph movement, famed for its meticulous finishes, such as a blued column wheel, along with a 60-hour power reserve, ensuring exceptional performance in an exquisite setting. The column wheel is an essential component in the chronograph movement, serving as the command mechanism for the chronograph’s various functions (start/stop/reset). By allowing for precise orchestration of these actions, it ensures smooth operation and seamless handling, and keeps the chronograph’s promise of reliability and durability. Through the sapphire back, one can admire a movement with exceptional finishes; it evokes a ballet of decorations: Côtes de Genève stripes, blued screws, a circular-grained barrel bridge, and polished steel components. The carefully executed finishes reflect watchmaking expertise and the pursuit of perfection.

The Chief Chronograph will be available at a price of 4,300 CHF with a rubber strap, and 4,375 with a steel bracelet.

Chief Date

With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of just 10.8mm, the Chief Date shares the refined design of the Chief Chronograph in a package that is slightly smaller and slimmer, yet just as delicately sculpted.

The Chief Date’s primary point of differentiation lies in its textured dial, featuring a stamped tapestry pattern of high-relief hourglasses. At 3 o’clock, a discreet date window adds practical functionality to the watch’s sophisticated design. The dials each have an offset sunray finish and come in vibrant hues of green, blue, and black, each capturing light in a distinctive, modern way.

The beautifully chiseled case elegantly combines satin-finished and polished surfaces, creating a subtle interplay of light. The interchangeable bracelet, seamlessly integrated into the case, offers exceptional comfort and underscores the watch’s sporty yet sophisticated character.

Powered by the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, the Chief Date impresses with a 68-hour power reserve. This movement, too, features superior finishes, including diamond-cut bevels, blued screws, and Côtes de Genève stripes. The oscillating weight, also decorated with Geneva stripes, adds an extra touch of luxury to the whole.

The Chief Date will be available at a price of 2,300 CHF, with a rubber strap and 2,375 CHF with a steel bracket, positioning this watch as an accessible option for watch enthusiasts seeking style, quality, and performance.

Deep Blue Collection: A Dive Into Vintage

Price Segment: Positioned under 2,300 CHF.
Distinctive Sub-Families: The collection comprises two sub-families: Deep Blue Revival (39mm) and Deep Blue Renaissance (40mm).
New Models: 4 new references – 1 model for the Deep Blue Revival and 3 for the Deep Blue Renaissance.
Exceptional: The collection features the exquisitely finished G100
Movement: movement from Manufacture La Joux-Perret, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
Design: As an ‘anniversary’ piece, the Deep Blue Revival honors the original design; the Deep Blue Renaissance offers a modern reinterpretation.

The Deep Blue collection pays homage to the brand’s rich history and technical prowess in dive watchmaking. First introduced in the 1960s, the Deep Blue quickly gained popularity for its robust design coupled with a water resistance down to 200 meters, a prized plus for its time.

The new collection, representing the ‘diver’ facet of Favre Leuba's relaunch, presents two flagship models: the Deep Blue Revival and the Deep Blue Renaissance. The former is a faithful reissue of the original 1964 model, while the latter is a modernized, more contemporary version.

Deep Blue Revival: Celebrating the 60th Anniversary

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Deep Blue (1964-2024), Favre Leuba is reintroducing its iconic model as the Deep Blue Revival, absolutely true to its original design and 39mm dimensions. This reissue is set to captivate both newcomers and aficionados with its blend of tradition and modernity.

The Deep Blue Revival features a sunray-finished gray dial adorned with baton-shaped indexes from the original design, ensuring excellent readability. The iconic round date window at 4:30, with its polished and glossy finish, retains the look of 1964. The indexes and hands, subtly filled with egg-shell colored Super-LumiNova® reminiscent of the radium used back then, evoke a vintage charm while guaranteeing remarkable legibility at all times, day or night. The distinctive green glow in the dark enhances the watch’s unique identity and retro appearance. The hourglass emblem at 10 o'clock adds an extra distinctive touch, while the uppercase ‘DEEP BLUE’ inscription underlines the watch’s purpose.

The case, 39mm in diameter and 12.75mm in thickness, thick case is designed and built for a water resistance of up to a depth of 300 meters, surpassing the 200 meters of the 60s model. All the professional dive watch boxes are ticked, including the unidirectional rotating bezel for calculating and monitoring no-stop dive times. This elegantly slim and robust case makes the Deep Blue Revival an ideal diver’s companion, offering exceptional wrist comfort both below and above sea level, in the wet or the dry. The solid case back, engraved with the ‘Favre Leuba 1737’ and hourglass emblem, is identical to its historical predecessor.

The Deep Blue Revival is powered by La Joux-Perret’s automatic G100 movement, ensuring a generous 68-hour power reserve, allowing you to leave your watch over the weekend and find it running accurately on Monday morning. This mechanism, entirely designed and produced by the prestigious Manufacture La Joux-Perret in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, offers hour, minute, central second, and date functions.

The model introduced in 1964 had an acrylic crystal; the new reincarnation boasts a sapphire crystal for increased durability. The bezel, made of bakelite back in the day, has been replaced with a sapphire insert printed on the back, faithfully reproducing the original’s look. The visual effect of depth is preserved, with the added bonus of superior scratch resistance. The luminous triangle at 12 o'clock and the white printed scale remain, as before, key identifying features. While these material improvements reflect contemporary standards and production techniques; they fully respect the vintage spirit.

Priced at 2,250 CHF, the Deep Blue Revival embodies the spirit of innovation and excellence that has defined the brand since its inception, a watch that integrates modern technical features while honoring its heritage. The steel bracelet, too, stays true to the original design with its 5-link construction featuring triangular links. Featuring a deployant clasp, its subtle satin-brushed steel sheen captures the light, adding a note of sophistication and elegance.

Deep Blue Renaissance

The Deep Blue Renaissance is the cousin of the Deep Blue Revival, but with bolder features and an enhanced, modernized aesthetic signature. It has been redesigned with a fresh, contemporary approach, highlighting a harmonious blend of design and functionality, and careful attention to detail. It oozes sophistication.

The Deep Blue Renaissance’s dial comes in three captivating shades: deep blue, intense green, and anthracite gray. It showcases a striking smoked effect, with a gradient color that is lighter at the center and darker at the edges. White Super-LumiNova®, glowing blue in the dark, ensures perfect legibility under any circumstance. The dial elements, such as the resized logo and hands, have been repositioned for a decidedly contemporary look.

Beneath the dial, the beautifully decorated La Joux-Perret G100 movement – which is visible through the sapphire case back, offering a stunning view of the refined mechanism. Enhanced water resistance up to 300 meters guarantees exceptional performance, even in the most demanding underwater environments. The enlarged screw-down crown, engraved with an hourglass emblem, completes this robust design and ensures maximum water protection against water ingress.

Besides the fundamentals such as hour, minute, and central second, the Deep Blue Renaissance features a date function with a window at 4:40. Naturally, it ticks off the key essentials of a dive watch, a unidirectional rotating bezel. Adapted in ceramic for the slightly larger 40mm case, the combination of the sleek material with a new numeral design projects a modern, purpose-designed vibe.

The Deep Blue Renaissance is available with a rubber strap or the completely redesigned ‘3-link’ steel bracelet, both featuring a quick-change interchangeability system for versatility. Note the curved lugs that add a bold touch to the overall design, giving the watch a modern vintage charm.

Favre Leuba’s Deep Blue collection celebrates six decades of horological excellence, blending the brand’s historical designs with the latest in engineering. Each piece pays homage to the spirit of perpetual innovation that defines Favre Leuba. The Deep Blue Renaissance, priced at 2,200 CHF with rubber strap and 2,300 CHF with a steel bracelet, embodies this legacy with an elegant, modern take.

Sea Sky Chronograph: A Fusion of Elegance and Functionality

Price Segment: Positioned at 3,950 CHF.
New Models: Three new references.
Exceptional Movement: Powering the collection is powered by Manufacture La Joux-Perret’s exquisitely finished L112 movement, crafted at their workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
Design: This ‘Revival’ chronograph incorporates all the classic elements of the era: among others, tachymeter and telemeter scales, a countdown timer, and Favre Leuba’s distinctive aesthetic codes.

Favre Leuba’s Sea Sky Chronograph epitomizes Swiss watchmaking at its best, with peerless precision and exceptional quality. This piece features a 40mm case in 316L stainless steel, finished with a juxtaposition of polished and brushed surfaces for that dashing elegance of rugged refinement.

Inside pulses the prestigious La Joux-Perret L112 automatic chronograph movement, offering an ample power reserve of 60 hours. Visible through a sapphire case back, the movement is lavishly decorated with impeccable finishes such as circular graining, Côtes de Genève stripes, and sunburst patterns. The gold-plated 4N oscillating weight displays the Favre Leuba hourglass emblem, engraved with ‘Swiss made since 1737,’ adding an extra touch of elegance to the exclusive provenance.

The Sea Sky Chronograph is topped with a double-domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating that makes the dial pop and ensures optimal readability in all conditions. The unidirectional rotating bezel, in black ceramic and engraved with countdown markers, provides practical functionality for precision enthusiasts.

Available with a black, blue, or sunburst brown dial, each model features three white counters, positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The watch’s classic appeal is further enhanced by the broad arrow-style hands and vintage-inspired indices.

The Sea Sky Chronograph’s proportions and design blend sportiness with casual chic, evoking the timeless elegance of 70s watches. Water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters, it comes with a leather pin buckle strap featuring a quick and convenient interchangeability system.

Advanced Features

The dial on the Sea Sky Chronograph includes a tachymeter scale for measuring velocity over a known distance (ideal for pilots, race car drivers, or those who need a quick fix on the average speed over a fixed distance) and a telemeter scale for calculating the distance to an event based on sound wave propagation (useful for military personnel, meteorologists, or anyone having to measure the progress of an approaching thunderstorm, for instance). Besides practical functionality, the scales add an aesthetic and technical dimension that appeals to discerning watch enthusiasts.

Tachymeter Scale

1. Start: As the object or vehicle starts moving, start the chronograph.
2. Stop: Stop the chronograph after the object or vehicle has traveled a known distance (1 km or 1 mile).
3. Check: Read the average speed directly on the tachymeter scale where the chronograph second hand has stopped.

For example, if a car travels one kilometer in 30 seconds, the second hand will stop at the 120 mark on the tachymeter scale, indicating an average speed of 120 km/h.

Telemeter Scale

1. Start: Start the chronograph when you see an event that produces sound (e.g., lightning, explosion).
2. Stop: Stop the chronograph when you hear the corresponding sound (e.g., thunder, noise of the explosion).
3. Check: Read the distance on the telemeter scale where the chronograph second hand has stopped.

For example, if you see lightning and hear thunder 9 seconds later, the second hand will stop at the 3 mark on the telemeter scale, indicating the storm is 3 kilometers away.

The Favre Leuba Sea Sky Chronograph combines the kind of practical functionality, design sophistication, and elegant sportiness that make it an irresistible choice for a watch.

Favre Leuba's re-entry at Geneva Watch Days 2024 is not just a comeback—it’s a celebration of heritage, innovation, and craftsmanship. With 22 new references across three collections, Favre Leuba is poised to captivate watch enthusiasts worldwide. Join us as we honor our past and embrace a bright future in watchmaking.

The new collections – Chief, Deep Blue, and Sea Sky Chronograph – demonstrate the brand’s dedication to blending tradition with modernity, combining a distinctive aesthetic with peerless engineering to create timepieces that are both functional and stylish. As Favre Leuba embarks on this exciting new chapter, it remains steadfast in its mission to create exceptional watches that resonate with both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts alike.

And it’s just the beginning – Favre Leuba is already working on a new collection of complicated watches that pays tribute to the brand’s deep and rich history. Stay tuned.