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Timekeepers Club / February 9, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Zebra Piece Unique

A new addition to Konstantin Chaykin's Wristmons collection is always an exciting event. The reason is simple: such a premiere is seen as a long-awaited answer to the consistently intriguing question of what design idea has sparked Chaykin's inventive mind this time. The new Wristmon also captures attention because, in the latest models of the collection, the master brings his inventions and technical developments to life, occasionally introducing functions that didn't exist before.

A quick glance at the Zebra watch is enough to recognize that it is not only a new character and design but also a new movement. Considering the dial configuration, the closest analog would be the Minotaur Special Chinese New Year 2021 watch, where, for the first time in the Wristmons collection, a Joker-time indication emerged with two disk indicators for hours and minutes (depicting the eyes of the character) and a large two-disk day of the week indicator (depicting the nostrils of the character). In the Zebra watch, Konstantin Chaykin employs a similar configuration, but the resemblance ends there: for this model, he developed a new calibre, K.33.3, for both the basic mechanism and the joker-indication module, marking the first automatic movement with a mini-rotor entirely designed and manufactured in Russia.

New Manufacture Calibre for the New Wristmon

If you turn the Zebra watch upside down and peer through the sapphire window of the caseback, a sight unfamiliar even to experts is revealed. Zebra is the first watch not only among the Wristmons but also in the entire brand collection to feature calibre K.33.3 — a new basic automatic movement from the "Konstantin Chaykin" manufacture with a mini-rotor automatic winding system. Since the introduction of the Joker watch, the first in the Wristmons series in 2017, Konstantin Chaykin predominantly equipped watches in this collection with basic automatic movements from Swiss factories, namely Eta 2824, Eta 2892, and Vaucher VMF 3002. The exceptions are three unique pieces crafted by the master for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019, 2021, and 2023 (the 2023 auction has been postponed), featuring hand-wound movements. While using basic Swiss-made movements is a common industry practice, adopted even by luxury and collector watch brands, Konstantin Chaykin has always aspired to develop his own universal base calibre for Wristmons and other collections. Nonetheless, Konstantin Chaykin has always harbored the ambition to create his own universal base calibre for Wristmons, as well as watches in other collections. This calibre should be adaptable for use in its simplest form or in combination with a variety of complications. Such movements, known as manufacture movements, are considered prestigious, enhancing the appeal and value of the watch.

Initiating the development of a new basic movement, Konstantin Chaykin opted for an automatic winding system with a mini-rotor. This design reduces the overall thickness of the movement, resulting in a slimmer and more elegant watch. Beyond the technical features aimed at minimizing the movement's thickness, the mini-rotor winding mechanism also offers exclusivity. Currently, watches with mini-rotor calibers are only produced by watch brands in the prestige segment, and their numbers are limited. Konstantin Chaykin stands as one of the few independent watchmakers globally who has undertaken the development of a movement in this exclusive category. Moreover, the calibre K.33.3 is the first automatic movement with a mini-rotor entirely designed and manufactured in Russia. The master believes this calibre represents a significant advancement for his manufacture, incorporating several new technical ideas for which Konstantin Chaykin, one of the leading inventors in the world watchmaking industry, has prepared and filed three patent applications.

In creating his own movements, Konstantin Chaykin adheres to the principles of fine watchmaking. As a globally recognized watchmaker and an active member of The Académie Horlogers des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), he has meticulously studied traditional techniques for finely finishing watch movement components, refining them throughout his career. This expertise enables him to transform each mechanical calibre into a genuine work of fine watchmaking art.

The movement's design reflects the master's distinctive style, rooted in his foundational manual-winding calibre K.01, which he began designing in 2008. Notably, the fine-tuning of the effective spiral length is achieved through the signature Pakman thermometer. The fixing pad of the spiral eccentric wheel has an unusual shape reminiscent of a popular video game character.

Zebra Indication for a New Wristmon

The master uses two nostrils of the zebra image on the watch face as paired windows for the large day of the week indicator he invented — a design choice previously seen in the Minotaur 2021 model. But there is a significant difference: the day names are now in Russian, whereas in the Minotaur watch, they were in English. To enhance the indicator's usability, Konstantin Chaykin decided to incorporate sapphire lenses into the windows, a feature he had previously developed for the unique day of the week indicator with emoji jokers in the Joker Selfie Only Watch 2019 Piece Unique and subsequently used in the Minotaur watch.

In those Wristmons where the case lugs serve as the character's ears, Konstantin Chaykin diverges from the standard design of watches in this collection, featuring two heads — a crown and a corrective. In the Zebra watch, the crown is positioned at the 6 o'clock position, between the lower lugs of the strap attachment.

Another noteworthy and emotionally resonant addition is the introduction of an indicator that has never before been used in the Wristmons collection. Konstantin Chaykin introduces a new smiling complication — the crown mode indicator. When the crown is pulled out, the background of the Zebra smile changes from white to red, allowing this Zebra to show its tongue!

Recalling the existential query from Marty, the zebra, and a main character from the Madagascar cartoon, "Alex, look at me: I'm ten years old. My life is half over and I don't even know if I'm black with white stripes or white with black stripes," the Zebra watch would also find it challenging to provide a definitive answer. For this watch, both interpretations hold true. The watch's case is white with black stripes, owing to the incorporation of black carbon fiber composite decorative details into the bezel. The unique zebra strap, specially crafted for this watch from high-quality calfskin leather, is also black with white stripes. The dial further complicates Marty's question, featuring distinct stripes colored in white or black. Interestingly, the Zebra watch marks the first Wristmon with a dial of this type — an innovative touch from Konstantin Chaykin.

Technical specifications


Konstantin Chaykin Zebra Piece Unique

Case

  • Material: Stainless steel case with decorative black carbon fiber composite overlays
  • Diameter: 40 mm
  • Thickness: 13.3 mm (incl. lugs), 11.7 mm (glass to glass)
  • Glass: Sapphire crystal with luminescent coating
  • Number of case parts: 64
  • Caseback: Stainless steel caseback with sapphire window

Dial

  • Dial decoration: High-relief guilloche decoration, multilayer lacquer coating, precision pad printing
  • Number of dial parts: 40

Movement

  • Caliber K.33-3 with mini-rotor automatic winding system, entirely conceived, designed, and produced by "Konstantin Chaykin" manufacture
  • Mini-rotor: VNJ 95 tungsten heavy alloy
  • Diameter: 33.2 mm
  • Thickness: 8.1 mm (incl. module)
  • Escapement: Anchor escapement
  • Balance frequency: 21'600 vph (3 Hz)
  • Power reserve of 42 hours
  • Number of jewels: 40

Functions/Indications

  • Joker-time indication with disk hour and minute indicators, large two-disk day indicator, crown position indicator

Strap and buckle

  • Exclusive high-quality calfskin leather
  • Clasp: Classic, stainless steel; made by "Konstantin Chaykin" manufacture

MSRP: TBC

For more information, please visit chaykin.ru

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