New
Timekeepers Club / September 1, 2022

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir.More than a collaboration;a piece of teamwork. More than an exercise in style; acompositionbyfour hands, eachadding its ownnuances. More than an exchange; a meeting of two brands. And, once again, the challenge of accessible exclusivity: CHF 3'500, 178 pieces.

The hour isn’t dark; it’s glossy. First, it captures the eye, then releases its grip for a glance at the minute and second hands: a thin hand as if taken from a fir bud that splits the black dial with its acid green tip, as if to remind you that the watch is alive andmoving.

Once again, this new variation on the regulator theme captures the essence of collaboration. Louis Erard X Label Noir. Louis Erard has been one of the Franches Montagnes region's more maverick brands for almost 100 years. And Label Noir has been a Geneva-based atelier at the forefront of customisation for more than ten years. The meeting of these two worlds produced a spark: a green spark, like the last ray that the sun sends over the earth before hiding behind the horizon. A spark that illuminates the rich black tones that watchmaking expertise is capable of producing.

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir is all about depth. Emmanuel Curti, head watchmaker and founder of Label Noir, wanted to redesign the regulator in his own way of reading the time: first the hour, then the minute, then the seconds. This order of reading led to graduated finishes, from true matte to a glossy sheen.

The first thing that jumps out at you is the small hour dial: the only glossy black element on the entire watch, highlighted by a thread of mirror-polished steel. The rest of the dial is in vertically brushed matte, accentuating the contrast, while the case is treated in matte black so as not to interfere with the dial. The strap adds a finishing touch: black Cordura woven fabric that stands out from the rest, as if adding to the play of textures and extending the range of black tones.

In this design, director and artistic director of Louis Erard, Manuel Emch, found a new way of drawing the lines of collaboration. Each element in this watch leads back to the same principle: we are always stronger together.

Emmanuel Curti has found a training ground in Label Noir’s style. It’s a style that’s been developed over time, through customisations for private clients and collaborations with other brands. A style that was already in an embryonic phase in Label Noir's very mission: to take the concept of watchmaking to another level, by daring to add variety, matte, black, and acid colours.

Without teamwork, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir wouldn’t exist. This model was built in dialogue, in a series of exchanges, over many proposals and iterations. Multiple prototypes and different versions were created. In the end, the most iconic model was chosen: the one that best reflects both worlds. Label Noir's chromatic concentrate. Louis Erard's signature components: the Excellence case, the fir-tree hands, and the regulator. And subtleties with surprising origins: the idea of green glass on the open caseback came from Louis Erard, but is so Label Noir that it was kept.

Other collaborations are still to come.

Technical specifications


Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir

Reference: 85237NN57

Limited edition of 178 pieces

Case

  • Material: Sandblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating
  • Diameter: 42 mm, lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug: 49.60 mm
  • Thickness: 12.25 mm
  • Glass: domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
  • Transparent caseback
  • Signature Massena LAB crown
  • Caseback engraved with “Limited Edition 1 of 178”
  • Water-resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft)

Dial and hands

  • Black, satin finish at 6-12 o’clock with white and green transfers
  • Polished black lacquer counter at 12 o’clock with polished rhodium-plated ring and white transfer
  • Counter at 6 o’clock with white and green transfers.
  • Logos Louis Erard X Label Noir at 3 o’clock
  • Signature fir tree hands, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and green lacquered second hand

Movement

  • Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre
  • Diameter: 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm
  • Thickness: 5.60 mm
  • Number of jewels: 31
  • Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
  • élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight with black lacquered Louis Erard symbol
  • Power reserve of approx. 38 hours

Functions/Indications

  • Hours, minutes, seconds
  • Hour hand in a counter at 12 o'clock, central minute hand, second hand in a counter at 6 o'clock

Strap and buckle

  • Black nylon with green stitching, black calf leather lining
  • Sandblasted stainless steel pin buckle with black PVD coating, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
  • Dimensions: 22/20mm width, 80/115mm length

MSRP: CHF 3'500

For more information, please visit louiserard.com

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