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Timekeepers Club / January 22, 2024

Sartory-Billard Flying Tourbillon SB06-12 and SB06-24

Sartory-Billard, renowned for its exquisite bespoke craftsmanship, proudly unveils the SB06-12 and SB06-24 Flying Tourbillon watches. This release is not just a watch, but a symbol of the brand's evolution to offer more high complications to our customers. The SBTV01 caliber developed and crafted by Comblemine upon Sartory-Billard’s request and design is a unique and captivating project turned reality in the world of watches.

About Sartory-Billard

Sartory-Billard, established in 2015 by Armand Billard, stands out in the luxury watchmaking industry for its commitment to bespoke craftsmanship and personalization. The company's ethos is rooted in the belief that each timepiece should be as unique as its wearer, offering an extensive range of customization options. With a focus on combining traditional watchmaking techniques with modern design, Sartory-Billard caters to a discerning clientele that values individuality and quality. The brand's dedication to innovation and customer-driven design has earned it a distinct place in the world of luxury watches.

About Comblemine

Comblemine is an independent company based in Val-de-Travers Switzerland. Majority owned by Kari Voutilainen, Comblémine is known for the elaborate dials it produces for many independent watchmakers but its clients also include far bigger brands. Director Christophe Beuchat has built up a workforce of 20 specialists who are skilled and highly enthusiastic.

From Exclusive Collaboration to General Collection

In the summer of 2021, Sartory-Billard embarked on a pivotal journey in watchmaking when approached by the Cronotempvs Watch Club. The club's request was for a flying tourbillon that would embody the distinctive DNA of Sartory-Billard. What initially seemed like a straightforward selection of a standard movement rapidly transformed into a quest to develop Sartory-Billard's first in-house movement.

This 2.5-year journey saw Armand Billard collaborating closely with the Cronotempvs group. Together, they crafted the design, developed the movement with the technical experts and watchmakers at Comblemine, and pushed the boundaries with innovative features like sapphire bridges and intricate details. This process challenged Comblemine, numerous suppliers and part makers to realize a design that was both ambitious and finely detailed.

The culmination of these efforts was the delivery of a limited subscription series of 30 SB06-12 tourbillons to CronotempVs collectors on December 2, 2023. This accomplishment has now enabled Sartory-Billard to introduce a flying tourbillon into its regular collection.

The SB06-12 and SB06-24

This new Sartory-Billard model is available in both 12-hour and 24-hour formats, each offering a unique experience. The SB06-12 version presented here features a Havana coloring with a tremblage hour dial and rose gold hour and minutes hands, while the SB06-24 version presents two exquisite models: Le Jour, featuring a guilloche center dial associated with aventurine in a rose gold case and rose gold Guilloche movement, and the La Nuit, with an engraved to scale moon center dial and aventurine outer dial and dark blue Guilloche movement in a platinum case.

With an additional gear module fitted under the dial of the SB06-24 reference, the hour hand runs two times slower and therefore makes only one unique rotation per day. To read the time on the scale, use the sun symbol for daytime hours, and the moon symbol for nighttime hours. Each symbol covers a twelve hour period in a continuous loop. Use the minute hand to read the minutes as usual.

The Movement

At the heart of these timepieces is Sartory-Billard’s first in-house movement, the SBTV01.

It features an almost invisible top bridge crafted from sapphire that requires skill in handling, revealing detail and giving light and depth to the movement and its unique customisable guilloché base plate. Together with the two arched bridges this movement design allows a maximum of visibility. Embracing the essence of true “Haute Horlogerie”, every component, even those unseen without disassembly, undergoes meticulous finishings like black polished screws, polished chatons, sinked holes and columns. The bevelling and inward angles of the arched bridges and tourbillon cage are executed by none other than Philippe Narbel. An absolute reference in high-end movement finishings. The upper bridge can be engraved upon customer’s request with a quote, a name, a date etc.

At its core, the SB06 boasts a formidable Flying Tourbillon SBTV01 caliber with a manual winding mechanism bolstering a 96-hour power reserve and beating at 3Hz. Enough to last for up to four days.

As is customary in Haute Horlogerie, the meticulous assembly of each SBTV01 movement rests solely in the hands of a singular watchmaker—from the initial individual parts to the final regulation and testing at the workshop.

The Case

Crafted by Voutilainen & Cattin company for Sartory-Billard and available in platinum, gold, tantalum, steel or titanium, each piece boasts a 41mm diameter with the thinnest possible construction for optimal proportions. The metal case is 9.5mm only and the curved and short lugs are designed to suit various wrist sizes. The double domed sapphire glass on the case back enhances the movement's visibility while adding elegance and visually making the watch considerably thinner.

The Dials

They feature options like tremblage, machine or hand Guilloche by Comblemine, stone from Groh&Ripp, enamels, and craftsman art like maki-e etc. Numbers are pad printed on a sapphire disk floating above the minute dial and can be adapted to different font styles like Bréguet, Roman, Indian Arabic etc. 'La Nuit' model showcases a unique moon with an extraordinary story of craftsmanship. The engraving is based on altimeter measurements from NASA's Lunar Reconnaissance Orbiter, with a scale factor for diameter at 1:155 million and for height at 1:70 million. The topography of the moon is reproduced to a depth of 200 μm, with a total engraving of 445 μm depth on a convex-shaped dial surface, showcasing an incredible level of detail and dedication to authenticity.

The Hands

If there is one element that makes Sartory-Billard instantly recognizable, it is unquestionably its hands. Manufactured out of 2 parts for the SB06-12, one sandblasted and the other polished, they are unique in every way.

The SB06-24 features a 5 parts hour hand with a central sandblasted part, two spears, the sun made of solid gold and the moon filled in with luminova. The design and properties of these hands ensure legibility even in poorly lit conditions.

The Strap

Like the dial, the strap has been carefully chosen to match the dial or the owner's taste. Handmade by Scarlett Paris, the strap is completely bespoke in leather type, color, and size. As with all those involved in the creation of this timepiece, Scarlett Paris is a household name amongst discerning collectors around the globe

Thanks

Sartory-Billard expresses deep gratitude to the CronotempVs Watch Club for this unparalleled opportunity and trust. This collaboration is a testament to the brand’s ability to break new ground. It also highlights the crucial role played by a network of exceptional Swiss suppliers led by Comblemine who made this project a reality. Offering a flying tourbillon as the first in-house movement is a rare achievement and demonstrates Sartory-Billard’s dedication to achieving excellence in the realm of watchmaking.

About CronotempVs

CronotempVs is a private watch collector club founded in 2009. CronotempVs was created with the intent to create a bridge between watchmaker and collectors. Since 2010 the private club CronotempVs has itself participated in numerous projects with commercial and independent brands. Membership is by invitation only.

Closing Statement

As the SB06 series takes its proud place in Sartory-Billard's esteemed catalog, we invite watch connoisseurs and enthusiasts to discover these masterpieces. The transition from an exclusive club project to a key offering in our collection underscores our dedication to expanding the horizons of bespoke watchmaking. We encourage all who cherish unique, personalized timepieces to explore the SB06-12 and SB06-24 models and experience the pinnacle of our craftsmanship.

Technical specifications


Sartory-Billard Flying Tourbillon

Reference: SB06-12

Reference: SB06-24

Limited to 24 units of SB06-12 or SB06-24 a year

Case

  • Material: Steel, Titanium, Gold, Platinum and Tantalum
  • Diameter: 41mm
  • Thickness: 9.50mm
  • Double domed sapphire for the front and back with anti reflective treatment.
  • Lug Width: 21mm.
  • Water-resistant to 50 meters
  • Lug width: 21mm

Dial and hands

  • Tremblage, machine or hand Guilloche by Comblemine
  • 'La Nuit' moon dial is hand engraved
  • Spear hands

Movement

  • SBTV01 in house movement
  • Manual winding
  • Diameter: 32.60mm
  • Frequency: 21'600 vph (3Hz)
  • Number of jewels: 19
  • Number of parts: 209
  • Power reserve of 96 hours (4 days)

Functions/Indications

  • Hours, minutes, seconds
  • Tourbillon

Strap and buckle

  • On demand

MSRP

  • SB06-12 : EUR 88'000 excl VAT titanium or steel
  • SB06-24 : EUR 96'000 excl VAT titanium/ steel / gold / platinum

For more information, please visit sartory-billard.com

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