Ulysse Nardin Classico Tiger in Champlevé and Paillonné Enamel

In China, the Year of the Tiger is greeted with joy and celebration. Ulysse Nardin is delighted to join in the revelry. Passionate, daring, confident and determined, people born in the year of the tiger are considered to be brave and respected for their courage by both friends and foes. They can go from being fiery and fearless to calm and emotional in a blink of an eye. They always impress people with an image of power and authority. The third in a 12-year cycle of Chinese zodiac signs, this important occasion is being marked by Ulysse Nardin in an original way.

The Classico “Tiger” in rose gold – produced in a limited-edition series of 88 pieces to mark the 2022 event – is vibrant yet elegant. Using two centuries-old methods of enameling (champlevé and paillonné enameling), the artist’s sketch is brought to life.

Champlevé enameling

A decorative technique forgotten and mastered only by a handful of craftsmen; enamel is only used on exceptional watches. A rare art form mastered by only a few, the champlevé technique involves carving directly onto the dial, creating individual “cells” that are then filled with enamel. The colors come from a careful blending of different metallic oxides. The dial is fired until the enamel melts before being smoothed and polished. The final step – which is also the most delicate – involves enriching the motif by chiseling metal elements onto the surface.

Paillonné enameling

What sets this Classio Tiger watch apart is the art of “paillonné enameling”, an age-old decorative technique. Motifs cut from a thin gold or silver leaf, the paillons (or strips), are placed by hand one by one at the right place. Once the design is done, the figures are also covered with another layer of enamel and fired in the same oven. This translucent coat will protect the paillonné motif for centuries to come, as if freezing it in place for all eternity. Here, the moon is made with silver strips and the stars are made of 3 distinctive gold strips. The tridimensional effect on the watch is breathtaking.

The process of creating enameled faces is delicate and difficult to master, an artisanal competence which requires that over 90% of the process is done by hand. There is no available modern technology that could enhance the process. A leader in this field, Donzé Cadrans workshops from Le Locle, Switzerland, were integrated to the Ulysse Nardin Manufacture in 2011. Although all enamel processes are quite the same, each of them is different, requiring exceptional precision and skills. Complexity, fine details, realistic decorations and a magical ensemble effect explain in particular the intense and ancestral desire of collectors to own enameled watches. Donzé Cadrans, despite the changing times, helps to maintain the techniques of enamel in the purest of traditions. The enamel fabrication process could never be industrialized: the instinct and humility can’t be programmed, and this is what define craftsmen’s talent of Donzé Cadrans.

Powered by the UN-815 movement the 40 mm Classico “Tiger” has a self-winding movement with 42 hours power reserve, a black alligator strap with a rose-gold buckle and an open sapphire case-back. Waterresistant to 50m, the rose-gold polished case sets off the gold Tiger motif to perfection.

Technical specifications: 

Ulysse Nardin Classico Tiger in Champlevé and Paillonné Enamel

Reference: 8152-1MLE-9E-TIGER/1IA

Limited edition of 88 pieces

Case

• Material: 18k rose gold
• Diameter: 40 mm
• Glass: Sapphire crystal
• Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial and hands

• Champleve and Paillonné Enamel
• Produced by Donzé Cadrans and @/ozerongravure

Movement

• Caliber UN-815 Self-winding movement
• Number of jewels: 21
• Frequency: 28’800 ( 4 Hz) 
• COSC Certification
• Power reserve of 42 hours

Functions/Indications

• Hours, minutes, seconds

Strap and buckle

• Black alligator strap with a rose gold buckle

MSRP: CHF 40'600

For more information, please visit ulysse-nardin.com