Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour de l’Île

In 1755, when Jean-Marc Vacheron signed his first apprenticeship contract, it marked the beginning of a quest for excellence that continues to define Vacheron Constantin to this day. To mark 270 years of technical and aesthetic mastery, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers workshop has created three single-piece edition timepieces paying homage to the Tour de l’Île, a historic Geneva landmark with deep ties to Vacheron Constantin. Set in elegant 40mm cases, each dial gives full rein to the artistic savoir-faire of the Métiers d’Art atelier.

A spirit and identity forged in Geneva

Set on a small island in the middle of the Rhône River, the Tour de l’Île (literal translation: tower of the island) is the remnant of a fortified castle built in the 13^th century to defend Geneva. Bridges linking the two sides of the Rhône via the island – just downstream from where the river flows out of Lake Geneva – have existed since pre-Roman times. Underlining the strategic importance of the crossing, the bridge was demolished by Julius Caesar and subsequently rebuilt several times over the centuries. As a major checkpoint on the route connecting northern and southern Europe, this link elevated Geneva to become a major crossroads for European trade, providing the foundation for the city’s early wealth.

In the 18^th century, the city of Geneva became a major workshop devoted to timekeeping instruments, jewellery making and the decoration of objets d’art. It had at its disposal a highly skilled workforce of craftsmen and their apprentices. The Vacheron family alone illustrates the importance of watchmaking in the local economy and society at the time. Jean Jacques Vacheron, a weaver and an immigrant to Geneva, had five sons, of whom four entered the Fabrique (a grouping of all the crafts associated with watchmaking). Jean, the eldest, became a skilled maker of watch cases. The second son, Jean-Etienne, made tools for watchmaking; and the fourth, Antoine, assembled watch cases. Jean-Marc, the youngest, became a master watchmaker and opened his own workshop in 1755.

By 1850, Geneva’s reputation was such that unscrupulous manufacturers elsewhere were increasingly producing counterfeits. In 1886, at the request of the Geneva Society of Watchmakers, the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva created the Poinçon de Genève (Hallmark of Geneva) to protect the ‘Geneva’ designation of origin, this prestigious and demanding certification is a guarantee of origin, quality and excellence.

A treasured Geneva landmark today, the Tour de l’Île clock tower stands as a symbol not only of the city’s fortitude and resilience but also of Vacheron Constantin’s history. From 1843 the Maison installed its workshops in the tower and displayed its signage on the façade. The Maison moved to more spacious workshops in 1875, about 100 metres away on the Quai des Moulins, then opened its first boutique in the tower in 1906.

Inscribed on the dial of the clock on the Tour de l’Île, Geneva’s motto, Post Tenebras Lux (After Darkness, Light) dates back to the mid-16^th century, a period of great change for the city. The motto expresses the idea that even in the darkest time there is the possibility of a brighter future and is a powerful symbol of Geneva’s commitment to freedom, independence and progress. Engraved inside the officer-style case back of each watch, Geneva’s motto echoes the Maison’s unwavering quest for excellence.

Métiers d’art and art of finishing express the soul of Geneva

Celebrating the savoir-faire of Vacheron Constantin’s master artisans – engravers, enamellers and guillocheurs – the Tribute to the Tour de l’Île timepieces epitomise the Maison’s enduring commitment to craftsmanship, culture and the Arts. With its own Métiers d’Art workshop dedicated to preserving rare and historic decorative crafts, fostering their development and passing the legacy down through the generations, the Maison provides a sanctuary for artistic crafts that may otherwise vanish.

Capturing the spirit of Geneva, each of the three Tribute to the Tour de l’Île dials features a view of the tower inspired by an historic lithograph and reinterpreted by Vacheron Constantin’s designer. Miniaturised for a 33.6mm-diameter dial, yet faithful to every detail of the original image, the meticulously hand-crafted dials showcase several métiers d’art. One model features a miniature Grand Feu enamel painted dial in pastel shades that perfectly complement the 950-platinum case. The second piece, also cased in platinum, features a highly original combination of guilloché and Grand Feu enamel. The third piece displays a finely engraved 18K pink gold dial that matches its pink gold case.

For the new Tribute to the Tour de l’Île single-piece edition watches, Vacheron Constantin has chosen a simple display of hours and minutes in order to focus on the artistic beauty of the dials. At 40mmin diameter and 9.42mm thick, the sobriety and proportions of the finely crafted case epitomise the understated elegance that has been a hallmark of the Maison for 270 years. On the reverse side of the watch, an officer-style caseback reveals the beauty of the movement beneath a transparent sapphire crystal.

The mechanical elegance of the self-winding manufacture Calibre 2460 is enhanced by the finest of finishing, in the tradition of Haute Horlogerie inherited from the Age of Enlightenment. Perlage and Côtes de Genève on the bridges are complemented by a hand-guilloché 18K 5N pink gold winding rotor. Attesting to the quality of the craftsmanship, each watch bears the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Hallmark) – a seal of excellence that guarantees both the watchmaking workmanship and the origins of the timepiece within the Canton of Geneva.

The caseback bezel of each watch is engraved with Vacheron Constantin’s 270^th anniversary emblem. As with every single-piece edition produced by the Les Cabinotiers workshop, the caseback is also engraved with the inscriptions ‘Pièce unique’, ‘Les Cabinotiers’, and ‘AC’ – for Atelier Cabinotiers.

Les Cabinotiers: manifesting the Maison’s quest for excellence

Specialised in the creation of single-piece edition models, Les Cabinotiers is the highest expression of Vacheron Constantin’s quest for excellence. A team of highly skilled women and men – craftsmen as well as watchmakers – Les Cabinotiers has the freedom to create single-edition pieces for which they can develop new technical ideas or explore and evolve the decorative crafts in new directions.

The Les Cabinotiers workshop perpetuates the legacy of the Maison’s 18th-century forebears while embodying Vacheron Constantin’s spirit of innovation and continuing to expand its watchmaking capabilities. Whether grand complication timepieces or watches focused on artistic expression, the master watchmakers and artisans of Les Cabinotiers create timepieces that contribute to advancing horology.

The name Les Cabinotiers is a reference to Geneva’s most gifted artisans of the 18th century (watchmakers, engravers, enamellers, jewellers, lapidaries, etc.) who plied their trade in workshops known as cabinets, located on the upper levels to benefit from the best natural light for the longest part of the day.

Connecting the past with the future of watchmaking, the three Tribute to the Tour de l’Île pieces continue a golden legacy of Vacheron Constantin watches inspired by this Geneva landmark. They include a series of 1920s pocket watches with engraved cases, a 1994 pocket watch with an enamelled case, and the famous Tour de l’Île wristwatch created to mark the Maison’s 250^th anniversary in 2005, featuring 16 complications – the world’s most complicated wristwatch at the time.

Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour de l’Île – Grand Feu miniature enamelling

Complemented by a platinum 950 case, the Grand Feu enamel dial features a miniature enamel-painted reinterpretation of a lithograph drawn by Jean DuBois (1789–1849) and printed by Spengler & Cie. It captures the view of the tower with the richly detailed tableau of the Place de Bel-Air in the foreground, faithful to the monochrome original in every detail but rendered in pastel-coloured enamel.

Employing the Geneva technique of miniature enamelling – developed in the city from the 18^th century onwards – the dial required one month of meticulous hand craftsmanship to complete. The first challenge was to test pigment colours (which can often change in unpredictable ways when fired) to ensure that, in the finished work, they would correspond as closely as possible to the designer’s drawings.

The enamelling itself is a demanding process that begins with the application of a fondant – a white enamel undercoat – to the 18K white gold dial to create a perfectly smooth surface. Then, the image is painted in multiple layers, using an extremely fine brush. Finally, the master enameller applies several layers of translucent enamel to protect the work and add brilliance and depth. Throughout this extremely delicate process, each layer must be fired at more than 800°C before applying the next layer. These firings are essential and require great mastery, with careful attention given to maintaining optimal temperatures, which helps prevent the formation of bubbles or cracks, shrinkage of the enamel or alteration of the colours. 

Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour de l’Île – Figurative guilloché and Grand Feu miniature enamelling

The dial of this watch reinterprets an early 20^th-century illustration produced by Charnaux – a photographic workshop and postcard publisher initially located on the Place de Bel-Air, immediately across the river from the Tour de l’Île.

In adapting the illustration for the dial, Vacheron Constantin rendered the surrounding buildings as simple black line drawings to focus the eye on the tower and emphasise its strength and presence. This has been translated to the 18K 5N yellow gold dial in a subtle union of hand-guillochage and Grand Feu enamel against the soft texture and matte finish of the sandblasted background – the latter chosen to amplify the sense of perspective captured in the image. For the master guillocheur, working on the uneven texture of the sandblasted plate added greater technical difficulty to the work and required even more than usual precision. Resulting from multiple intersecting skills, this dial is the product of approximately 16 hours of meticulous guilloché work and 40 hours of miniature Grand Feu enamelling.

On the dial, the fine black lines of the buildings are hand-guilloché. Every detail, even the most minute, is faithfully reproduced. A wide variety of guilloché patterns is used to differentiate parts of the buildings and enhance the sense of depth and architectural perspective. To create figurative drawings with guillochage – a signature technique from Vacheron Constantin’s guillocheur – required the development of new guilloché motifs from scratch.

As of 1780, the date of the Maison’s oldest watch to feature a guilloché pattern, Vacheron Constantin began decorating its timepieces with a wide variety of guilloché motifs. Even today, these patterns engraved on the various metal bases are entirely hand-crafted. The machine is merely an extension of the human touch.

The craft of figurative drawing by guillochage was developed by the Maison’s own master guillocheur. The technique, which calls for great dexterity, is created by the alternating use of two hand-operated guilloché machines: one to engrave straight lines; and the other to make curves and circles. By combining these two techniques it becomes possible to create detailed illustrations entirely different from traditional geometric and abstract guilloché decoration, transforming the craft into a figurative art form in its own right.

At the centre of the dial, the famous Tour de l’Île is painted in Grand Feu miniature enamel, standing out proudly from the surrounding buildings. To maximise the richness, depth and clarity of colour, multiple layers have been added sequentially: a base layer of white fondant to create a smooth surface, then multiple layers of colour topped by two layers of transparent fondant enamel to add brilliance and depth. The piece was fired at more than 800°C after every layer – a total of nine steps – requiring rare skill to mitigate all the risks inherent in such a demanding process.

Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour de l'Île - Engraving

Inspired by an engraving of the Tour de l’Île and the bridges over the Rhône made in 1822 by Pierre Escuyer (1749-1834), the 18K 5N pink gold dial plate of this model precisely matches the case material. The dial is engraved in bas-relief, a technique in which the engraver draws an outline of the desired motif then carefully carves away the surrounding metal so that the motif is slightly raised from the surface, creating a subtle trompe l’oeil effect.

Creating this miniature work on a plate barely one millimetre thick is a feat by the master engraver. Working from an initial sketch, the work is meticulous: each perspective line, drawn with extreme precision, converges towards the vanishing point, breathing dynamism into the composition. The bas-relief technique then brings the scene to life. By carving into the material, the engraver brings out the volumes and contrasts. The dome atop the bell tower, for example, stands out sharply thanks to the depth sculpted around it.

The finishing work requires dexterity. Chiselling adds depth to the darker areas, such as the trees and windows, while polishing makes the roofs and facades gleam. A subtle satin finish gives the clouds an almost palpable impression of volume. At this minuscule scale, faithfully reproducing the details of the original engraving – the pedestrians on the bridge, the rooster perched on the weather vane – is a tour de force. This hand-engraved masterpiece required more than 140 hours of work.

Interview with Sandrine Donguy, Product & Innovation Director

What is the significance of choosing the Tour de l’Île as the subject of these 270^th-anniversary pieces?

Because the Tour de l’Île is a powerful symbol of Geneva’s commitment to freedom, independence and progress, we wanted to celebrate this anniversary by paying tribute to the city where our Maison was born 270 years ago. The first clock was installed in the tower in 1583 at the request of the residents of St Gervais neighbourhood who wanted to measure the rhythm of their daily lives. From 1843 Vacheron Constantin installed its workshops in the tower and displayed its signage on the façade. Today, we are proud to pay homage to this great historic landmark with these three anniversary watches.

Given the deep ties between the Tour de l’Île and Vacheron Constantin, has the Maison previously paid tribute to this Geneva landmark?

The tower, which was home to Vacheron Constantin’s ateliers in the 19^th century, has inspired quite a number of creations that capture the essence of our shared history. Among the pieces in our private collection are a 1924 silver-cased pocket watch decorated with an image of the tower engraved using the ‘eau forte’ oxidising technique and a 1926 pocket watch in a silver case with a detailed image of the Tour de l’Île and St Gervais district engraved using the chasing technique. More recently, in 1994, the Maison created a pocket watch in yellow gold with an enamelled caseback depicting the Place Bel-Air and the Tower. And, in 2005, to celebrate our 250^th anniversary, we created the Tour de l’Île wristwatch. The most complex wristwatch at the time, with 16 different complications, it won the Aiguille d’Or – the highest honour – at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) that year.

Why were these particular métiers d’art chosen and how do they represent the Maison’s commitment to preserving tradition while constantly innovating? 

Vacheron Constantin has its own in-house workshop where these three métiers d’art, along with gem-setting, are all practised, and we wanted to celebrate that mastery. When we have an opportunity to combine different crafts in a new timepiece, the sharing of ideas encourages each specialist to expand their technique and deepen their mastery. For the enamelling, our choice of the Geneva miniature technique celebrates an artistic legacy that is specific to the city. Engraving, being one of the oldest decorative crafts known to mankind, evokes a profound sense of history and culture, in line with the Maison’s 270-year quest for excellence. Guillochage, while a traditional craft, is used here in an innovative way. Using guillochage to create figurative illustrations, rather than just abstract patterns, is a speciality of Vacheron Constantin – one that our master guillocheur evolved in new ways for this series of watches. Having a dedicated Métiers d’Art workshop where the different artisans share their energy and ideas stimulates their creativity in new and often unexpected ways.

To what extent does the existence of Les Cabinotiers within Vacheron Constantin support the Maison’s ability to produce masterworks of exceptional quality?

Les Cabinotiers has the complete freedom necessary to explore new horizons, and thus epitomises the mission that has inspired the Maison since 1755 – the unwavering pursuit of both technical excellence and artistic beauty.  Dedicated to the creation of single-edition timepieces, the Les Cabinotiers workshop constantly pushes boundaries – in some cases dedicating many years to the deep research and development that’s needed. This not only supports the advancement of Haute Horlogerie through technical innovation but also, by working closely with our in-house métiers d’art masters, encourages the evolution of the decorative crafts in new directions.

Technical specifications

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour De L'île - Grand Feu Miniature Enamelling

Reference: 2400C/000P-418C 

Single-piece edition

Case

• Material: Platinum 950, polished
• Diameter: 40 mm
• Thickness: 9.42 mm
• Officer and transparent sapphire crystal caseback engraved with the motto “Post Tenebras Lux”
• ‘Pièce unique’, ‘Les Cabinotiers’ and the ‘AC’ coat of arms, and a Maltese cross with the number 270 on the back of the watch
• Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial and hands

• 18K white gold, hand-crafted Grand Feu enamel with miniature-painting technique, depicting the Tour de l’Île in Geneva
• 18K white gold hour and minute hands, leaf-shaped, polished

Movement

• Calibre 2460
• Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
• Mechanical, self-winding
• Diameter: 26.2 mm
• Thickness: 3.6 mm
• Approximately 40-hour power reserve
• Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
• Number of parts: 182
• Number of jewels: 27
• Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Functions/Indications

• Hours, minutes

Strap and buckle

• Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, square scales, tone-on-tone stitching
• Platinum 950 pin buckle, polished Half Maltese cross-shaped

MSRP: Price upon request

Technical specifications

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour De L'île - Figurative Guilloché and Grand Feu Miniature Enamelling

Reference: 2400C/000P-420C

Single-piece edition

Case

• Material: Platinum 950, polished
• Diameter: 40 mm
• Thickness: 9.42 mm
• Officer and transparent sapphire crystal caseback engraved with the motto “Post Tenebras Lux”
• ‘Pièce unique’, ‘Les Cabinotiers’ and the ‘AC’ coat of arms, and a Maltese cross with the number 270 on the back of the watch
• Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial and hands

• 18K 3N yellow gold, sandblasted, hand guilloché, hand-crafted Grand Feu enamel with miniature-painting technique, depicting the Tour de l’Île in Geneva
• 18K white gold hour and minute hands, leaf-shaped, polished

Movement

• Calibre 2460
• Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
• Mechanical, self-winding
• Diameter: 26.2 mm
• Thickness: 3.6 mm
• Approximately 40-hour power reserve
• Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
• Number of parts: 182
• Number of jewels: 27
• Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Functions/Indications

• Hours, minutes

Strap and buckle

• Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, square scales, tone-on-tone stitching
• Platinum 950 pin buckle, polished Half Maltese cross-shaped

MSRP: Price upon request

Technical specifications

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tribute to the Tour De L'île – Engraving

Reference: 2400C/000R-412C

Single-piece edition

Case

• Material: 18K 5N pink gold, polished
• Diameter: 40 mm
• Thickness: 9.42 mm
• Officer and transparent sapphire crystal caseback engraved with the motto “Post Tenebras Lux”
• ‘Pièce unique’, ‘Les Cabinotiers’ and the ‘AC’ coat of arms, and a Maltese cross with the number 270 on the back of the watch
• Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial and hands

• 18K 5N pink gold, hand-engraved with the bas-relief technique, depicting the Tour de l’Île in Geneva
• 18K 5N pink gold hour and minute hands, leaf-shaped, polished

Movement

• Calibre 2460
• Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
• Mechanical, self-winding
• Diameter: 26.2 mm
• Thickness: 3.6 mm
• Approximately 40-hour power reserve
• Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
• Number of parts: 182
• Number of jewels: 27
• Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Functions/Indications

• Hours, minutes

Strap and buckle

• Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, square scales, tone-on-tone stitching
• Platinum 950 pin buckle, polished Half Maltese cross-shaped

MSRP: Price upon request

For more information, please visit vacheron-constantin.com