W&W 2022 Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G
Black Bay GMT S&G is a model with multiple time zones, a highly functional complication that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in two other time zones. Recognisable by its 24-hour graduated rotating bezel with two colours, representing day and night, the Black Bay GMT S&G also gives a subtle aesthetic nod to the history of this watchmaking function.
Three time zones
On the Black Bay GMT S&G model, the reference time is indicated by an angular “Snowflake” hand, an aesthetic hallmark of TUDOR, which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another, shorter “Snowflake” hand set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o’clock, is connected to the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day.
A very practical and technical detail for the user. The 24-hour graduated bidirectional rotating bezel and “24-hour” hand mean you can also keep track of a third time zone. On the anodised aluminium disc of the bezel, the graduations for the twelve daylight hours are gold-coloured on the brown section with the night-time hours on the black section.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5652
The Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function was developed by TUDOR for the Black Bay GMT S&G model. It illustrates the technical development process which is unique to TUDOR, drawing on adaptable architecture capable of including new functions into its manufactured movements rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.
It has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is «weekend-proof», about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.
Steel and gold bracelet, or jacquard-woven or leather strap
The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France using a traditional method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR celebrated ten years of collaboration with the hundred-and-fifty-year-old Julien Faure company. The partnership began with the launch of Heritage Chrono, the first model fitted with a fabric strap created by the craftsmen, at Baselworld 2010.
For the Black Bay GMT S&G, TUDOR has selected a black strap with a beige band woven by these traditional craftsmen. The model is also available fitted with a stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, the Black Bay GMT offers another choice of brown leather strap with light top-stitching and a folding clasp.
The essence of Black Bay
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over sixty years of TUDOR divers’ watches at the same time as being resolutely anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G
Reference: 79833MN-0001 (bracelet)
Reference: 79833MN-0003 (leather strap)
Reference: 79833MN-0004 (fabric strap)
- Material: Stainless steel
- Diameter: 41 mm
- Bezel: 48-notch bidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with 24-minute graduated matt brown/black anodised aluminium disc
- Crown: Yellow gold screw-down crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief, with circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube
- Glass: Domed sapphire crystal
- Water-resistant to 200 m (660 ft)
Dial and hands
- Black, domed
- “Snowflake” hands with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
- Manufacture Calibre MT5652
- Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
- Integrated construction
- Diameter: 31.8 mm
- Thickness: 7.52 mm
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Number of jewels: 28
- Power reserve of 70 hours
- Jumping hours (second time zone), 24 hours, minutes and seconds at the centre
- Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range synchronised on the jumping hours hand
- Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Strap and buckle
- Riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet with polished and satin finish, or brown leather strap with steel folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with beige band and buckle
- CHF 5'300 (bracelet version)
- CHF 4'100 (strap versions)
For more information, please visit tudorwatch.com