W&W 2022 Tudor Black Bay Pro
Black Bay Pro is an entirely new model with a dual time zone feature, a technical complication that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in another time zone. Compact, robust and sporty, this model boasts many unique aesthetic details and celebrates the spirit of the technical watches that TUDOR has produced for professionals throughout its history. Recognisable by its 24-hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and its yellow 24-hour “Snowflake” hand, Black Bay Pro is powered by the TUDOR Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function.
Adventurer spirit and technical aesthetics
Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, like the 30 explorers who embarked on the twoyear British North Greenland Expedition to study Arctic ice exactly 70 years ago, with TUDOR watches on their wrists. Brand founder Hans Wilsdorf supplied watches for the members of the expedition. He had just created the first waterproof and self-winding TUDOR watch, the Oyster Prince model, and couldn’t imagine a better environment for testing it than the extreme climate of the Arctic. The Black Bay Pro model reflects the heritage of those instruments used by the pioneering explorers. This is a tool-watch designed for professional use.
Whilst this model is part of the Black Bay line, it introduces many new and unique aesthetic details, starting with its winding crown which has been entirely redesigned for maximum grip. Reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, this new component is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible. In another new feature, the applied hour markers on the dial are made from monobloc luminous ceramic.
This feature enhances the technical aesthetic of Black Bay Pro whilst considerably increasing the luminous surface of the hour markers. A new bracelet clasp, with a TUDOR “T-fit” rapid size-adjustment system, completes the list of new innovations included in this model. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, the “T-fit” system allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of up to 8mm on the clasp.
Two time zones
On the Black Bay Pro model, the reference time is indicated by an angular yellow “Snowflake” hand, an aesthetic hallmark of TUDOR, which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another, shorter “Snowflake” hand set by a jumping hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o’clock, is coupled with the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day. A highly unusual, sophisticated and particularly practical function for the user.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5652
The Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function was developed by TUDOR for the Black Bay Pro model. It illustrates the technical development process which is unique to TUDOR, drawing on adaptable architecture capable of including new functions into its manufactured movements rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.
It has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is «weekend-proof», about 70 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.
Steel and gold bracelet, or jacquard-woven or leather strap
The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France using a traditional method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR celebrated ten years of collaboration with the hundred-and-fifty-year-old Julien Faure company. The partnership began with the launch of Heritage Chrono, the first model fitted with a fabric strap created by the craftsmen, at Baselworld 2010.
For the Black Bay Pro, TUDOR has selected a black strap with a yellow band woven by these traditional craftsmen. The model is also available with a stainless steel bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, the Black Bay Pro is also available with a hybrid strap in black rubber and fabric with a folding clasp.
The essence of Black Bay
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over sixty years of TUDOR divers’ watches at the same time as being resolutely anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
Reference: M79470-0001 (bracelet)
Reference: M79470-0002 (fabric strap)
Reference: M79470-0003 (hybride rubber and leather strap)
- Material: Stainless steel
- Diameter: 39 mm
- Bezel: 24-hour graduated fixed bezel in satin-brushed steel
- Crown: Steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief.
- Glass: Domed sapphire crystal
- Water-resistant to 200 m (660 ft)
Dial and hands
- Black, domed
- “Snowflake” hands with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
- Manufacture Calibre MT5652
- Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
- Integrated construction
- Diameter: 31.8 mm
- Thickness: 7.52 mm
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Number of jewels: 28
- Power reserve of 70 hours
- Jumping hours (second time zone), 24 hours, minutes and seconds at the centre
- Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range synchronised on the jumping hours hand
- Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Strap and buckle
- Riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, or hybrid rubber and fabric strap with steel folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with yellow band and buckle
- CHF 3'800 (bracelet version)
- CHF 3'500 (strap versions)
For more information, please visit tudorwatch.com