Timekeepers Club / April 7, 2022

W&W 2022 Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5000T/000P-B975

Vacheron Constantin presents a new signature timepiece combining a platinum case with a salmon-coloured dial. This classically inspired combination is available in limited annual production exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques. This Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph with a new face is powered by in-house Calibre 1142 QP, one of the most prestigious chronograph movements enhanced by the perpetual calendar complication and crafted in the purest tradition of Haute Horlogerie.

Since 2006, Vacheron Constantin has been renowned for its Collection Excellence Platine comprising specific limited editions made of this noble metal. In the same spirit of exclusivity, Vacheron Constantin has created a new signature model combining a salmon-coloured dial with a platinum case. This combination harks back to the great days of classical watchmaking, when coloured dials were a symbol of elegance. Vacheron Constantin continues to cultivate the same elegance in its collections thanks to a technical and aesthetic quest in which attention to detail constitutes an anatomy of beauty inherent in its timepieces. This harmonious platinum and salmon colour combination is an integral part of the Maison’s heritage, perfectly embodied in some of its historic models. It will henceforth be reserved for watches produced in limited annual quantities and destined for Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Perfect legibility

For the launch of these timepieces, the Maison presents the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph, a model symbolising the Manufacture’s technical expertise in the realm of grand complications. As its name suggests, this watch embodies traditional watchmaking codes, notably including Dauphine-type hands, a railway-type minutes track and a stepped case with distinctive fluting on the back. The legibility of the functions – an essential characteristic of Vacheron Constantin watches – is carefully orchestrated between the chronograph and the perpetual calendar. 

Time indications are provided by white gold hands and hour-markers, while the chronograph and date functions are displayed by blued steel hands. The 30-minute chronograph counter and the small seconds counter appear in a perfectly balanced symmetrical arrangement. The moon phases appear on a platinum disc at 6 o'clock, integrated within the pointer-type date display. The day, month and leap-year cycle are read off through apertures in the upper part of the dial. The technical nature of the model is further accentuated by the tachymeter scale around the periphery and serving to calculate the average speed over a distance of 1000 metres thanks to the positioning of the chronograph seconds hand.

Concern for details

In keeping with the Maison’s philosophy of sophisticated aesthetics ensuring that each component benefits from meticulous care enhancing the overall beauty of each model, meticulous attention has been lavished on the dial. Its opaline salmon-coloured small seconds and chronograph minute counters are distinguished by a circular satin-brushed ring with a finely snailed centre. The same snailed finish is featured on the circumference displaying the date numerals. The platinum disc, bearing a moon that is alternately smiling and melancholy depending on the phase, has also been revisited in the spirit of 19th century table watches. The raised moons are polished and surrounded by stars against a frosted background. One final detail plays a particularly important role in accentuating the exclusive nature of this new interpretation: a relief and facetted version of Maison’s emblematic Maltese cross beneath the 12 o'clock hour-marker. Crafted in 18K 5N pink gold, it features facets on each arm that are sandblasted on one side and polished on the other, thus providing a new expression of the Vacheron Constantin symbol.

A prestigious calibre

To drive the functions of this watch, the case is equipped with manual-winding Calibre 1142 QP. This chronograph movement, complemented by a perpetual calendar, is one of the most highly prized historical calibres among collectors. It dates back to the 1940s and is notably distinguished by the sophisticated aesthetics of its architecture as well as by its reliability and precision enhanced by its column-wheel system. This 324-component movement in its perpetual calendar version has been adapted over the decades, particularly to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria, while its rate frequency has been modified to 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and its power reserve amounts to 48 hours.

The movement finishing which can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback is the object of particular attention perfectly illustrating this year’s theme, with a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges, hand-bevelled components and straight-grained flanks. Fitted with an alligator leather strap secured by a folding clasp, this watch offering chronograph and perpetual calendar functions features two of the most prestigious horological complications, while being eminently suitable for everyday use – an extremely attractive combination in the world of time measurement.

Technical specifications

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Reference: 5000T/000P-B975


  • Material: 950 Platinum
  • Diameter: 43 mm
  • Thickness: 12.94 mm
  • Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
  • Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)

Dial and hands

  • Salmon-coloured opaline
  • 950 Platinum moon disc
  • 18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour and minute hands
  • Blued steel chronograph and date hands
  • Black painted tachymeter scale


  • Caliber 1142 QP
  • Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
  • Mechanical, manual-winding
  • Diameter: 27.5 mm (12’’’)
  • Thickness: 7.37 mm
  • Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
  • Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
  • Number of parts: 324
  • Number of jewels: 21
  • Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece


  • Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
  • Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication) 
  • Moon phase
  • Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter at 3 o’clock)

Strap and buckle

  • Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
  • 950 platinum folding clasp                                                                    
  • Polished half Maltese cross-shaped 


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