W&W 2023 Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Lucent Steel™ With A Salmon Dial

In a creative gesture imbued with the innate elegance of the L.U.C collection, Chopard Manufacture draws inspiration from the first timepiece in the collection, presented in 1997, by combining the sophistication of a guilloché dial in salmon-coloured solid gold, a 36.5 mm case made of Chopard’s exclusive Lucent Steel™ alloy, as well as a finely crafted chronometer-certified movement. L.U.C Calibre 96.40-L is wound by a gold micro-rotor and equipped with the two barrels based on Chopard Twin technology. Eagerly awaited by Haute Horlogerie collectors, this model is as colourful as it is elegant, while celebrating the Manufacture’s skills expressed through meticulous finishing duly recognised by the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.

The L.U.C collection has once again demonstrated its refined nature by offering a bold reissue of its very first timepiece: the L.U.C 1860, named "Watch of the Year" by Swiss magazine Montres Passion (Uhrenwelt) right from its launch in 1997. Today, a new version in Lucent Steel™ and a salmon-coloured guilloché gold dial continues the Manufacture's approach of combining respect for watchmaking tradition with innovation.

Lucent Steel™: the alchemist’s quest

For the first time in its history, the L.U.C collection draws on the luminous brilliance, resistance and purity that are key assets of Lucent Steel™, an exclusive alloy through which Chopard has chosen to treat steel as a precious metal. Resulting from four years of research and development, this steel endowed with properties comparable to those of surgical steel, entered the watchmaking world with the 2019 launch of the Alpine Eagle collection. Today, the use of this material – 80% composed of recycled elements – in the Maison’s other collections bears witness to Chopard's ongoing commitment to responsible luxury.

The aesthetic harmony of elegant contrasts

At the heart of the 36.50 mm Lucent Steel™ case nestles an elegant two-tone dial. Made of solid gold, it features a subtle salmon hue obtained by galvanic treatment and contrasting with the white gold touches of the chevron hour-markers – whose herringbone shape echoes that of the slender, facetted Dauphine-type hands – as well as by the finely guilloched rings marking off the minutes scale, the central zone and the small seconds counter. The dial centre is meticulously hand-guilloched in a radiating pattern surrounding the historical Chopard logo – housed in a cartouche at 12 o'clock – while the chapter ring is satin-brushed. The snailed small seconds counter is positioned at 6 o'clock in a beautiful balance of symmetry and proportions, further accentuated by the absence of date aperture which also contributes to the pared-down design. The anthracite grey grained calfskin leather strap, with its tone-on-tone stitching, complements the refined colours and textures skilfully orchestrated by the workshops.

Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark: a guarantee of fine craftsmanship

Combining their vertically integrated approach with the validation of independent authorities, the workshops have submitted this timepiece to the scrutiny of the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. The latter guarantees the quality and smooth functioning of watches assembled in the Canton. The L.U.C 1860 takes this label of excellence to new heights, as it is rarely applied to a steel watch. However, the rendering of Lucent Steel™, the delicacy of the dial colour and the finesse of its motifs, along with the precision rating of the movement, transcend conventions, placing this model firmly in the upper echelons of contemporary watchmaking.

Certified mechanical performance

The L.U.C 1860 timepiece is equipped with the L.U.C 96.40-L movement, whose refinement is all the more remarkable given its mere 3.30 mm thickness. This movement is a variation on the very first L.U.C calibre, which marked the creation of the Chopard Manufacture watchmaking workshops in 1996. It is equipped with an off-centre micro-rotor in 22-carat gold, whose high inertia enables the efficient winding of two barrels. Stacked in accordance with Chopard Twin technology, these barrels store the energy required for a total 65-hour power reserve.

The L.U.C 96.40-L movement drives a small seconds indication, a prerequisite for chronometer certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. Reflecting the L.U.C collection’s innate sophistication, it is also equipped with a stop-second function and a swan’s-neck index assembly. The latter serves to carefully calibrate the active length of the balance-spring, thus enabling finer adjustment of the oscillating frequency and hence of the movement’s rate. Finally, all the bridges are carefully chamfered and adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif.

L.U.C collection: horological fine craftsmanship 

The L.U.C 1860 timepiece is part of a continuing story that began more than a quarter of a century ago when, under Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s leadership, Chopard established the L.U.C collection, devoted to the art and traditions of Haute Horlogerie. Since the first L.U.C 1860 timepiece was introduced in 1997, the collection has been enriched over the years with exquisite, often highly original complications in watches designed, developed, assembled, decorated and certified according to the finest traditions of Swiss watchmaking in Chopard’s Fleurier and Geneva workshops. The re-edition of a L.U.C 1860 timepiece demonstrates Chopard’s exceptional capacity for reinvention and for springing new surprises.

Technical specifications

Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Lucent Steel™

Reference: 168860-3003

Case

• Material: Lucent Steel™
• Diameter: 36.50 mm
• Thickness:  8.20 mm
• Notched crown in steel with engraved L.U.C logo 5 mm
• Vertical satin-brushed flanks and inter-horn space
• Polished bezel and case-back surround
• Sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides
• Exhibition sapphire crystal pane fitted on the case-back
• Water-resistant to 30 metres

Dial and hands

• Salmon-coloured gold dial with hand-guilloché central medallion and satin-brushed chapter ring
• Snailed small seconds counter
• White gold chevron-type hour-markers
• White gold Dauphine-type hours and minutes hands
• White gold baton-type small seconds hand

Movement

• Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.40-L
• Number of components: 176
• Diameter: 27.40 mm
• Thickness:  3.30 mm
• Number of jewels:  29
• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve of 65 hours
• Two barrels – Chopard Twin technology
• Winding via a micro-rotor in engraved ethical 22-carat gold
• Bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif
• Annular balance
• Swan’s-neck index-assembly
• Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
• Chronometer-certified by the COSC
• Poinçon de Genève quality label

Functions/Indications

• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Stop-second function

Strap and buckle

• Anthracite grey calfskin leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching
• Lucent Steel™ pin buckle with L.U.C engraving

MSRP: TBC

For more information, please visit chopard.com