W&W 2024 Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

At Watches and Wonders Geneva this year, the independent and integrated Manufacture Ulysse Nardin introduces the next chapter in the story of the Freak, the unconventional and yet traditional Freak S Nomad, reflecting the brand’s independent spirit and its quest to explore new territories by pushing boundaries.

The new 99-piece limited edition watch is defined by its unique movement, which at first glance carries echoes of a fantastical spaceship.

That look comes from the architecture of the Freak S’s Calibre UN-251 Manufacture movement, a flying carousel that rotates around its own axis. It features two oscillators with silicon balance wheels inclined at 20 degrees (that look like launch pads) and escapements treated with high-tech DIAMonSIL for added precision and durability. These are linked by a vertical differential system mounted on ball bearings. Winding is taken care of by Ulysse Nardin’s innovative Grinder® winding system, an automatic system that’s twice as efficient as a traditional automatic system.

The movement’s bridges are coated in anthracite PVD, while what becomes the minute hand is filled with luminous Super-LumiNova® that glows light blue in the dark. In all, there are 373 components and 33 jewels in the movement.

Surrounding that is a 45mm case that brings together an experimental mix of materials: titanium for the main body; an anthracite PVD-coated titanium bezel; and carbon fibre flanks that also serve as the watch’s lugs. These meet a choice of two straps: one anthracite rubber ‘ballistic’; and a second in matt anthracite alligator that’s open-worked to reveal sand-colored calfskin leather accents.

So far, so unconventional. But traditional? And so on to the hour disk…

The Freak S Nomad’s diamond guilloché hour disc is an artisanal hand-crafted wonder

The Freak S Nomad is a design and technical maverick, no doubt. But it’s also a paradox. Because at the same time, it also testifies to Ulysse Nardin’s deep love of haute horlogerie, métiers d’art and the rare handcrafts and finishing techniques that define only the most exquisite luxury watches. No element in the Freak S Nomad better illustrates this passion than the hour disc that sits behind the carousel ‘spaceship’ movement.

It features a diamond guilloché pattern finished in sand-coloured CVD, a nod to waving sand dunes. Produced one piece at a time by a skilled artisan, the painstaking method behind it takes years to learn and perfect. It involves a rare 18th century rose engine, turned entirely by hand, with no electronics and no laser guidance.

Each dial is a beautiful sequence of intersecting curves, requiring 240 continuous movements over a three-hour period. Because the pattern is the result of one continuous movement, the guillocheur must not lift their hand or even flinch so as to ensure the seamlessness of the pattern. No comfort breaks. No time for coffee. It requires a freakish level of concentration, skill and patience.

Why undertake this by hand? For three reasons. First, because of the romance and beauty in hand-craftsmanship. As machines become smarter, faster and more detached, so they become less emotional, and so the value of hand-craftsmanship becomes more eternal. Second is that because there are no machines involved, there are no vibrations, which makes the finish smoother and more accurate. And finally, because each plate is crafted by hand, no two are exactly the same.

The juxtaposition of this ultra-traditional finishing technique with the Freak S Nomad’s state-of-the-art movement and avant garde material mix is the perfect symbol of Ulysse Nardin’s uncommon watchmaking approach: at once pure and rooted in the savoir-faire of high-end Swiss watchmaking and yet also in brave pursuit of absolute novelty and innovation.

As the Freak S Nomad explains: Ulysse Nardin’s spirit of exploration knows no boundaries.

Technical specifications

Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

Reference: 2513-500LE-4A-GUI/1A (alligator strap)

Reference: 2513-500LE-4A-GUI/3A (“ballistic” rubber strap)

Limited edition of 99 pieces

Case

• Material: Titanium case and locker, anthracite PVD-coated titanium bezel, carbon fibre side plates
• Anthracite PVD-coated titanium case back with open sapphire
• Diameter: 45mm
• Perceived height 13.66 mm, overall height 16.65 mm
• Water-resistant to 30 meters

Movement

• Caliber UN-251 Manufacture
• Automatic movement
• Hours, minutes
• Flying carousel movement rotating around its own axis
• Two 20-degree-inclined oversized oscillators with silicon balance wheels
• DIAMonSIL escapements
• Vertical differential with ball bearings
• Grinder® automatic winding system, blades technology
• Sand-coloured CVD with diamond-shaped guilloché hour disc
• Anthracite PVD bridges with light blue Super-LumiNova®
• Number of parts: 373
• Number of jewels: 33
• Frequency: 2 x 2.5 hz, oscillations 2 x 18’000 vph
• Power reserve of 72 hours

Functions/Indications

• Hours & minutes

Strap and buckle

• Anthracite rubber “ballistic” textured strap
• Anthracite openworked mat alligator leather strap with sand-colored calfskin leather inserts
• Titanium deployant buckle

MSRP

• CHF 140’600 (8.1% VAT included)
• EUR 150’000 (21% VAT included)
• GBP 130’510 (20% VAT included)
• USD 148’300 (VAT excluded)

For more information, please visit ulysse-nardin.com