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Timekeepers Club / November 1, 2023

"F.P.Journe Le Restaurant" in the heart of Geneva

Geneva, Switzerland - November 1st, 2023At 49 Rue du Rhône, a new chapter begins in the (hi)story of a real Geneva bistro gem, with the opening of “F.P.Journe Le Restaurant”, the fruit of an encounter between two epicureans: chef Dominique Gauthier and François-Paul Journe. With their partnership, anchored in mutual trust and a shared vision, a new page is being written for this establishment that has seen some of the greatest local and international names pass through its doors.

An institution for good food and good drink, the address made its debut in 1912 with the famous “La Bavaria” brasserie, frequented by the elite of the League of Nations. Ministers, heads of state and journalists from all over the world gathered at its tables. The decor has remained unchanged since 1942. In 2012, it was listed, from the woodwork to the furniture, becoming the heritage of all Genevans.

The cornerstone of this union finds its resonance in the respective careers of these two men with strong personalities, forged by hard work and a love of their profession. The restaurant will be a place of conviviality, where each guest becomes a host, immersed in an atmosphere that is both elegant and relaxed.

In charge of decoration is François-Paul Journe, who wanted to give the establishment a strong horological identity. The walls are adorned with posters that represent technical drawings of movements, the tables are named after famous watchmakers such as Jost Bürgi or Christiaan Huygens, and the menus make reference to models of the brand. Even the cutlery is inspired by this universe. In pride of place in the centre of the restaurant, an 17th-century astronomical clock, signed “Giovanni Brugell Venetia”, completes the details of these carefully chosen embellishments.

In the kitchen is Dominique Gauthier, a highly skilled and experienced chef. He began his apprenticeship at the age of 14, and rose through the ranks of France's top restaurants. He reached the highest level of Swiss gastronomy, unpretentiously, reaping praise and loyalty from his clientele. After three decades at Chat-Botté, restaurant of the Hôtel Beau-Rivage in Geneva, he made the bold decision to start anew.

His cuisine is defined as Mediterranean, with bursts of spice and citrus reminiscent of his travels in Thailand. Gourmet and generous, his dishes bring new nuances to the classic codes of culinary art. Over the years, he has developed privileged relationships with the best local producers, shining the spotlight on exceptional foods from the region: vegetables from Pierre Gallay, poultry from Nant d'Avril, beef from Pascal and Philippe Desbiolles in Meinier, and citrus fruits from Niels Rodin. The menu features the chef's signature dishes - scampis in kadaïf, hare ravioli with truffles, a tasting menu, as well as a selection of fine wines for a unique gastronomic experience.

Another pillar of this adventure is the staff of “F.P. Journe Le Restaurant”. With Morgane Quétineau-Demay, Dominique Gauthier's assistant, and under the benevolent supervision of restaurant manager Pascal Brault, each person contributes to the magic in motion. Chefs Maxime Mühlemann and Théo Cesarini, along with head sommelier Bogdan Tand, complete the passionate team of fifteen.

F.P.Journe Le Restaurant

Rue du Rhône 49, 1204 Geneva

T: +41 22 320 49 49

contact@fpjourne-le-restaurant.ch

fpjourne-le-restaurant.ch

Open Monday to Thursday, lunch and dinner times and Friday, lunchtime only.

The history of the Bavaria

A historic monument of food and drink has just been taken over by Dominique Gauthier and François-Paul Journe. A legendary bistro, a classified gem of the canton of Geneva’s bistro heritage and the last remaining witness to the great cafés and restaurants that lined the Rue du Rhône at the end of the 19th century, the birth place of international Geneva.

Located at 49 Rue du Rhône, the building, aligned with the Métropole hotel, was erected between 1852 and 1860, following the demolition of the fortifications on the Grand Quai, now the Quai Général Guisan. In 1912, a former druggist, Adolphe Neiger, opened a brasserie on the ground floor of a former Baezner bank branch overlooking both the Jardin Anglais and the Rue du Rhône. Specialized in German beers, it was naturally named the Bavaria. As recounted by Jean-Claude Mayor in his book Labouteille, la table et le lità Genève à la Belle époque*, Madame Neiger, a woman of character who helped her husband in the brasserie also made "excellent jams of Mirabelle plums picked from her orchard in Belotte".
*”Drink, food and lodging in Geneva during the Belle Epoque”

The Bavaria could have remained just another beerhouse if the fledgling League of Nations, founded in 1919 at the end of the First World War, hadn't held its regular assemblies at the Salle de la Réformation, just one block away. It's proverbial: at the end of lengthy palavers, the international delegate is thirsty. And the Salle de la  Réformation had no refreshment bar. So the brasserie became the "stamm*" for the gentlemen of the League of Nations. Ministers, heads of state and journalists from all over the world sat there. Neville Chamberlain, England's Chancellor and Minister of Health, forgot his umbrella one evening. Aristid Briand, several times President of the Council in France, had his napkin ring there.
*In Switzerland, a place where a group of friends or members of a society meet regularly.

Derson and Kelen, two Hungarian refugees in Geneva, were caricaturists who liked to sketch all the members of this high society. Their drawings included the brasserie's loyal customers: Briand, Chamberlain and Gustav Stresemann, the German Minister of Foreign Affairs. Over the years, the walls of the establishment became studded with nearly two hundred sketches representing the phoenixes of diplomacy at the time. They remained there until the company changed its name in the early 1980s. The caricatures that decorated the brasserie, much to the pride of the Neiger couple, are now part of the private collection of banker Ivan Pictet.

The first décor of the Bavaria was not refined. It evoked Germanic folklore and the atmosphere of the Bierstuben. The lower walls were covered with wainscoting, while the upper sections were adorned with large mirrors and decorative panels with motifs drawn from folk art: small birds and drinking scenes, medieval or country.

Today's beautiful décor dates back to 1942, when the brasserie underwent a complete renovation by architect Jean Falciola and designer Louis Amiguet. Tall, dark oak panelling and large mirrors adorn the walls. As before, the ceilings were fitted with geometrically patterned formwork. The rounded angles of some of the woodwork, found on the entrance revolving door or the counter, feature discreet incised rosettes, lending a rustic touch to the overall atmosphere.

And when, in 1982, the beer palace became "Le Relais de l'Entrecôte", this sumptuous setting hardly changed. In 2006, after twenty five years of good, loyal grilling, the address became the scene of several legal battles. In2012, the Geneva authorities, in a bid to save its name and atmosphere, classified the bistro's décor, from the woodwork to the ceiling, including the tables, chairs and mirrors.

In 2014, Le Relais had to move to rue Pierre-Fatio, just next door. The ex Bavaria became "Le 49 Rhône" in 2015. Then "Marjolaine" when, in 2018, Philippe Chevrier was called to the rescue by the owners and transformed the heritage arcade into an upscale trattoria. The restaurant was closed in March 2019 to allow for a lengthy renovation of the structure and upgrades to standards, before being reborn as "F.P.Journe Le Restaurant", all the while maintaining its charming decor. In command, Michelin-starred chef Dominique Gauthier and artist watchmaker François-Paul Journe, epicurean and connoisseur of fine wines. And so begins a new chapter in a saga spanning more than a century.

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