On the occasion of Baselworld 2018 (March 22-27), Patek Philippe is presenting a rose gold version of its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, first introduced in 2015 in a white gold and blue dial version
Together with the Men’s version, ref. 5524R, Patel Philippe is also launching the identical but smaller model for Ladies, ref. 7234R. The new timepieces indicates two time zones, separate day/night indicators for local and home time, analog date for local time and sweep seconds hand.
Framed by a 42 mm (Men) or 37.5 mm (Ladies) rose gold case, the large applied Arabic numerals and broad baton-style steel hands with Super-LumiNova coatings stand out very clearly against the brown background.
The home-time hour hand is skeletonized and remains in the background. It is hidden beneath the local-time hour hand when local and home time are identical.
A separate day/night indicator is assigned to both time zones (at 9 o'clock for local time and at 3 o'clock for home time). The dial is completed by an unusual analog date display at 6 o'clock where the date is represented in a 3-day increments scale.
The crown and the two time-zone pushers at 8 (+1h) and 10 o'clock (-1h) are fluted for a slip-free grip. The two pushers are equipped with a patent-pending safety lock that prevents unintended adjustments of the local time setting. Before they can be operated, the pushers must be released with a quarter turn and then locked again with a twist in the opposite direction.
When the local-time hour hand is moved forward or backward with the two pushers in the case, an isolator uncouples the time-zone mechanism from the going train. This prevents the degradation of the amplitude of the balance and allows it to continue oscillating at a regular rate.
This advanced mechanism is part of the self-winding calibre 324 S C FUS manufacture movement with a heavy central rotor in 21K gold visible through the sapphire-crystal display back. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it offers a power reserve between 35 and 45 hours when fully wound.
With its vintage brown, calfskin strap secured with a rose-gold buckle, the new Calatrava Pilot Travel Time strap is subtly reminiscent of the traditional harnesses that kept pilots’ survival kits and parachutes readily deployable.
Patek Philippe is not new to pilot watches. An examples comes from the aviator’s wristwatch made by Patek Philippe in 1936 and now in exposition at the Patek Philippe Musuem in Geneva. This 55 mm timepiece, with a chromed nickel case and a black lacquer dial, features splittable center seconds and an hour angle dial. Luminous material was used to highlight the Arabic numerals and the outer 60 degrees scale, as well as the hands. It was most probably produced on request as a unique piece.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in Rose Gold for Men Ref. 5524 has an indicative price of Euro 43,900 while the Ladies version Ref. 7234P is Euro 39,700. patek.com