Konstantin Chaykin answers your questions

1. Who are your favorite watchmakers, both past and present?

Among the watchmakers I admire, I'd mention Harrison, Breguet, and possibly Kulibin. You're familiar with Ivan Petrovich Kulibin, right? He created a pocket watch that, besides the timekeeping mechanism, included a musical device and a miniature theater, which he then presented to Catherine the Great. John Harrison was the inventor of the marine chronometer, while Abraham-Louis Breguet is known for inventing the tourbillon. These are three legendary figures in watchmaking.

However, I don't really have favorites anymore. At the start of my career, I had many favorites, but now, it’s difficult for me to single anyone out as everyone contributes uniquely. My professional experience has perhaps made it challenging for me to highlight one over the others, and it would likely be unfair given the many talented watchmakers in the industry today.

2. Which watch complication do you find most appealing?

In my creative journey, I've been particularly drawn to two complications: an Orthodox Easter date indicator and a mechanism that calculates the distance between Earth and Mars. These challenges weren't just mechanical; they required extensive mathematical research. Currently, I'm working on several projects that introduce completely new solutions rather than just complications. While I'm not ready to disclose details, I hope to share them with you soon.

3. Every watchmaker has a favorite project or piece they have worked on. Which one do you value the most?

My answer is traditional: I prefer not to differentiate between my projects in terms of success. It's more appropriate for others to make those judgments. I aim for excellence in all my work, continuously refining and infusing a part of myself into each piece. Every project holds a special place for me, though the ones I'm currently engaged with often captivate me the most.

4. We know several of your collaborations. Are there any not-so-independent brands you're particularly interested in collaborating with?

Certainly, I'm open to collaboration and eager to explore potential partnerships. I would be thrilled to collaborate with certain brands, though I prefer not to specify any names at this moment.

5. You work closely with independent watchmakers. Can you recommend any emerging independent watchmakers to watch out for?

Definitely, Anton Suhanov is one to watch. Initially a designer at our Manufacture, he has since launched his own brand, known for its triaxial tourbillon among other remarkable designs.

6. What inspired you to create the Joker watch and its unique dial?

The concept originated in 2016, aiming to transform the watch into an art piece that evokes an emotional reaction at first glance, with a dial resembling a face. The dynamic hour and minute indicators serve as the eyes, while the moonphase indicator creates a changing smile, offering an ever-evolving expression. Indeed, there are so many different expressions it's hard to count them all. Following the success of the Joker watch at Baselworld 2017, it became clear that we had started something special, leading to the development of the Wristmons collection, where each watch has a unique design and its own features.

7. What has led to the sharp increase in prices for your watches?

The price increase is a natural progression, though it is not sharp. The initial Joker watch was priced at €7,000, whereas the Wristmons collection now starts at twice that price. Initially, we didn't fully account for the costs when the first watch was made. Since then, the quality of our watches has significantly improved, not because the original ones were poor, but because we now place greater emphasis on overseeing every stage of production. The rise in prices isn't driven by marketing efforts, given the brand recognition, but by the actual cost of quality and adjustments for inflation and higher operational costs, including salaries. Naturally, these factors are reflected in the cost of each watch.

8. Mr. Chaykin, as a former president of AHCI and current member, do you have plans to teach watchmaking?

While I dedicate substantial time every day to training my staff and occasionally hold public lectures for a wider audience as part of my commitment to education, I don't foresee myself teaching in an academic setting or leading a specific course. It requires a significant amount of time, which I choose to allocate to the creation of new watches instead.

9. As a collector of your watches, I've noticed a significant price increase for your watches in recent years. Can you explain why?

Our production is limited to about 300 pieces annually, with demand exceeding the supply, leading to higher secondary market prices. Although we aim to engage directly with customers, many choose to resell our watches on the secondary market. This trend is common across many brands, leading to higher prices in the secondary market. However, purchasing watches primarily as an investment might not be the best approach. Instead, you should buy a watch because you genuinely like it.

10. How do you manage to provide after-sales service amid international sanctions?

We collaborate with international partners for after-sales service in various countries, ensuring smooth operations through long-standing agreements. Despite increased complexities in financial transactions and logistics with international customers, we navigate these challenges with the help of intermediaries.

11. If you hadn't become a watchmaker, what might you have pursued?

That's a challenging question, but invention would still be at the heart of whatever I did. Before watchmaking, I worked in woodworking around 1999-2000. My last job was 24 years ago! My time as an assistant director made me realize that I did not like either design or technology as they were presented to me. I was always eager to explore and transform things. So I would innovate and craft my own products. As for the specific field, it could have been anything. Admittedly, there's a slight regret in choosing watchmaking — it happened somewhat by chance. If I had to start over, my potential fields of interest might have been alternative transportation, energy, medicine, or biotechnology. Life is full of fascinating paths. However, delving deep into a new field and achieving a level of expertise that allows for the creation of new solutions and technologies can take decades. Shifting gears now might be both challenging and overdue. A future change isn't off the table, but for now, my focus remains on watchmaking, a field full of complexity and unexplored territories. There are many paths untraveled and peaks unclimbed, all waiting to be discovered.

12. What is your favorite book?

I don't categorize books into favorites. I enjoy reading a wide range, from children's stories to my kids, such as Krapivin, Bulychev, and recently, Conan Doyle, to fantasy literature for myself. My extensive library is constantly growing with watch-related material. My work requires a deep dive into specialized texts on science, materials science, and a broad spectrum of technologies. Despite 20 years of experience, learning never stops; processes and innovations are in a state of constant evolution. Even with a team of managers and technologists, a significant portion of my time is devoted to research, conceptualizing new processes, and their implementation. Innovation requires the cultivation of thought. It's crucial to hone your cognitive skills to navigate complex challenges, both technical and beyond. This growth is achieved not only through hands-on experience but also through regular reading.

Dear Mr. Chaykin, thank you for your time!